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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2027: Thom Browne, Prada, and Ralph Lauren Lead Escapist Collections

festival-fair · 2026-06-19

Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2027 unfolded during a Europe-wide heatwave, with temperatures hitting 40°C in Paris. The collections embraced an escapist mood. Thom Browne presented his first runway show in Italy since 2008, featuring a neoclassical courtyard with 400 seersucker plant pots and a bridal finale. Prada, designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, stripped back menswear to fundamentals like jeans and blazers, calling it 'an exercise in clarity' and 'against useless design'. Ralph Lauren’s combined Polo and Purple Label show featured patchworking, silk scarves, and berets, with Wallpaper’s Jack Moss noting the brand's preppy look was 'ubiquitous' among attendees. Dolce & Gabbana evoked a Sicilian vacation with all-white linen and citrus prints, ahead of their Alta Moda show in Taormina. Setchu’s Satoshi Kuwata drew inspiration from a fishing trip to Gabon, using leather cords and Japanese knots. Paul Smith, turning 80 in 2026, showed undone tailoring inspired by his grandfather’s rolled-up trousers. Giorgio Armani’s show, designed by Leo Dell’Orco, took place in the courtyard of Palazzo Orsini, with Silvana Armani presenting a Cruise 2027 collection. The collections emphasized lightness, clarity, and a break from convention.

Key facts

  • Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2027 occurred during a Europe-wide heatwave with temperatures reaching 40°C in Paris.
  • Thom Browne showed in Italy for the first time since 2008, featuring a bridal finale and 400 seersucker plant pots.
  • Prada’s collection, designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, was called 'an exercise in clarity' and focused on fundamentals like jeans and blazers.
  • Ralph Lauren’s show included patchworking, silk scarves, and berets; Jack Moss described the preppy look as 'ubiquitous'.
  • Dolce & Gabbana’s 'Vacanze Siciliane' collection featured all-white linen, citrus prints, and a film of Taormina’s Isola Bella.
  • Setchu’s Satoshi Kuwata used leather cords and Japanese knots inspired by a fishing trip to Gabon.
  • Paul Smith’s collection was inspired by his grandfather’s rolled-up trousers, featuring undone tailoring and a palette of off-whites and pistachio.
  • Giorgio Armani’s show was held in the courtyard of Palazzo Orsini, with a Mediterranean market theme; Silvana Armani presented a Cruise 2027 collection.

Entities

Artists

Institutions

  • Prada
  • Ralph Lauren
  • Polo Ralph Lauren
  • Ralph Lauren Purple Label
  • Dolce & Gabbana
  • Setchu
  • Paul Smith
  • Giorgio Armani
  • Wallpaper*
  • Metropol
  • Palazzo Orsini
  • Tod's
  • Brioni
  • Palazzo Ralph Lauren
  • Palazzo Serbelloni
  • Martin Brûlé

Locations

  • Milan
  • Italy
  • Paris
  • France
  • Sicily
  • Polizzi Generosa
  • Palermo
  • Taormina
  • Isola Bella
  • Gabon
  • Japan
  • Mediterranean
  • London
  • Stuttgart
  • Via Bigli

Sources