Three Independent Fashion Designers on Surviving New York in 2026
In a market where emotional connection now drives luxury desirability, according to a Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company report, independent fashion designers are uniquely positioned. However, the costs of living, production, and labor in New York pose significant challenges. CULTURED magazine interviewed three New York-based independent designers—Jacques Agbobly, Gabe Gordon, and Connor McKnight—about their strategies for sustainability. Agbobly, a 28-year-old Parsons graduate and 2026 Vilcek Prize recipient, has accepted a tenure-track teaching position at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago to gain stability, while continuing his namesake label. Gordon, 27, a RISD textile design graduate and 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, focuses on textile development and reusing materials across collections, and has applied for grants like FedEx and Brooklyn Brewery small-business grants. McKnight, 33, a 2024 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, runs his label from his Brooklyn apartment to save on studio costs, and emphasizes the importance of favors and community support. All three discuss their studio rents (Agbobly: $3,000/month; McKnight: $3,500/month including living expenses), budgeting priorities, pricing strategies, and practical advice for emerging designers. They highlight the need for business partners, documentation of processes, and persistence in an industry that demands constant novelty.
Key facts
- Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company report identifies emotional connection as the top driver of luxury brand desirability.
- Jacques Agbobly (28) launched Black Boy Knits in 2020, renamed it Agbobly in 2023, and is a 2022 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist and 2026 Vilcek Prize recipient.
- Agbobly accepted a tenure-track assistant professor position at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, requiring relocation to Chicago.
- Agbobly's studio rent is approximately $3,000 per month.
- Gabe Gordon (27) founded his label in 2019 while at RISD, and is a 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist.
- Gordon designs with his husband Timothy Gibbons, and their knitwear is hand-dyed and hand-loomed in Brooklyn.
- Connor McKnight (33) worked at Kith and Bode before launching his label in 2020, and is a 2024 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist.
- McKnight lives and works out of his Brooklyn apartment, paying $3,500 per month including living expenses.
- McKnight advises asking for and doing more favors, viewing it as an act of resilience.
- The article is part of CULTURED's 'Cult of Personality' issue.
Entities
Artists
- Jacques Agbobly
- Gabe Gordon
- Connor McKnight
- Timothy Gibbons
Institutions
- Business of Fashion
- McKinsey & Company
- CULTURED
- Parsons School of Design
- CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund
- Vilcek Prize
- School of the Art Institute of Chicago
- Rhode Island School of Design (RISD)
- FedEx
- Brooklyn Brewery
- Kith
- Bode
Locations
- New York
- Brooklyn
- Chicago
- Lomé
- Togo
- Ridgefield
- Connecticut
- Washington, DC