Ten Runway Shows That Redesigned the Catwalk and the Spectator's Gaze
A survey by designboom reveals how four decades of fashion shows have reshaped audience engagement. In fall 1984, Thierry Mugler's collection at Le Zénith in Paris featured a wing-shaped runway for over 6,000 guests. The spring/summer 1990 show by Maison Martin Margiela allowed local children to engage with models in a playground setting. Viktor & Rolf's fall 1999 couture display presented Maggie Rizer on a rotating platform. Alexander McQueen's spring/summer 2001 Voss utilized a two-way mirrored box for audience reflections. In spring/summer 2012, Prada seated 600 on foam blocks atop artificial grass. Anya Hindmarch's spring/summer 2017 setup hid an amphitheater, while Dior Men's fall 2019 included a moving walkway. Balenciaga's spring/summer 2020 arranged seating in a spiral, and Dior Men's summer 2024 unveiled 51 panels. Chanel's spring/summer 2025 show featured curving ramps in the Grand Palais.
Key facts
- Thierry Mugler's fall 1984 show at Le Zénith in Paris drew more than 6,000 people, including paying members of the public.
- Maison Martin Margiela's spring/summer 1990 show was presented in fall 1989 on a playground in Paris's 20th arrondissement.
- Viktor & Rolf's fall 1999 couture collection Russian Doll featured Maggie Rizer on a rotating platform dressed layer by layer by Viktor Horsting and Snoeren.
- Alexander McQueen's spring/summer 2001 show Voss seated guests around a two-way mirrored box so they saw their own reflections before the interior became visible.
- Prada's men's spring/summer 2012 show, designed by AMO, seated 600 guests on blue foam blocks across a 1.5-by-1.5-meter grid over artificial grass.
- Anya Hindmarch's spring/summer 2017 set at the Royal Horticultural Halls in London hid a sunken amphitheater and spiral path beneath a lifting circular platform.
- Dior Men's fall 2019 show used a 76-meter moving walkway inside a dark box, with models standing still as the belt moved them.
- Balenciaga's spring/summer 2020 show arranged about 500 seats as an elliptical double spiral across five levels in a 2,000-square-meter blue room.
- Dior Men's summer 2024 show opened 51 panels in a three-by-seventeen grid, raising the cast on individual lifts.
- Chanel's spring/summer 2025 haute couture show, designed by Willo Perron, placed two curving ramps in a figure-eight through the Grand Palais.
Entities
Artists
- Thierry Mugler
- Martin Margiela
- Viktor Horsting
- Rolf Snoeren
- Maggie Rizer
- Alexander McQueen
- Kim Jones
- Willo Perron
Institutions
- Maison Martin Margiela
- Viktor & Rolf
- Prada
- AMO
- OMA
- Dior
- Dior Men
- Balenciaga
- Chanel
- Anya Hindmarch
- Le Zénith
- Royal Horticultural Halls
- Grand Palais
- Prada Fondazione
- designboom
- SolidNature
Locations
- Paris
- France
- London
- United Kingdom
- Milan
- Italy
- Le Zénith
- Royal Horticultural Halls
- Grand Palais
- 20th arrondissement