ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Ten Runway Shows That Redesigned the Catwalk and the Spectator's Gaze

architecture-design · 2026-09-26

A survey by designboom reveals how four decades of fashion shows have reshaped audience engagement. In fall 1984, Thierry Mugler's collection at Le Zénith in Paris featured a wing-shaped runway for over 6,000 guests. The spring/summer 1990 show by Maison Martin Margiela allowed local children to engage with models in a playground setting. Viktor & Rolf's fall 1999 couture display presented Maggie Rizer on a rotating platform. Alexander McQueen's spring/summer 2001 Voss utilized a two-way mirrored box for audience reflections. In spring/summer 2012, Prada seated 600 on foam blocks atop artificial grass. Anya Hindmarch's spring/summer 2017 setup hid an amphitheater, while Dior Men's fall 2019 included a moving walkway. Balenciaga's spring/summer 2020 arranged seating in a spiral, and Dior Men's summer 2024 unveiled 51 panels. Chanel's spring/summer 2025 show featured curving ramps in the Grand Palais.

Key facts

  • Thierry Mugler's fall 1984 show at Le Zénith in Paris drew more than 6,000 people, including paying members of the public.
  • Maison Martin Margiela's spring/summer 1990 show was presented in fall 1989 on a playground in Paris's 20th arrondissement.
  • Viktor & Rolf's fall 1999 couture collection Russian Doll featured Maggie Rizer on a rotating platform dressed layer by layer by Viktor Horsting and Snoeren.
  • Alexander McQueen's spring/summer 2001 show Voss seated guests around a two-way mirrored box so they saw their own reflections before the interior became visible.
  • Prada's men's spring/summer 2012 show, designed by AMO, seated 600 guests on blue foam blocks across a 1.5-by-1.5-meter grid over artificial grass.
  • Anya Hindmarch's spring/summer 2017 set at the Royal Horticultural Halls in London hid a sunken amphitheater and spiral path beneath a lifting circular platform.
  • Dior Men's fall 2019 show used a 76-meter moving walkway inside a dark box, with models standing still as the belt moved them.
  • Balenciaga's spring/summer 2020 show arranged about 500 seats as an elliptical double spiral across five levels in a 2,000-square-meter blue room.
  • Dior Men's summer 2024 show opened 51 panels in a three-by-seventeen grid, raising the cast on individual lifts.
  • Chanel's spring/summer 2025 haute couture show, designed by Willo Perron, placed two curving ramps in a figure-eight through the Grand Palais.

Entities

Artists

Institutions

  • Maison Martin Margiela
  • Viktor & Rolf
  • Prada
  • AMO
  • OMA
  • Dior
  • Dior Men
  • Balenciaga
  • Chanel
  • Anya Hindmarch
  • Le Zénith
  • Royal Horticultural Halls
  • Grand Palais
  • Prada Fondazione
  • designboom
  • SolidNature

Locations

  • Paris
  • France
  • London
  • United Kingdom
  • Milan
  • Italy
  • Le Zénith
  • Royal Horticultural Halls
  • Grand Palais
  • 20th arrondissement

Sources