ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Private Equity's Fashion Bet Falters as Founders Embrace Bootstrapping and New Funding Models

economy-finance · 2026-09-30

According to interviews conducted by Monocle, the venture of private equity into the fashion industry has largely been unsuccessful. Lauren Santo Domingo, who co-founded Moda Operandi in 2010, secured $165 million in funding led by Apax Digital Growth, which purchased Matches Fashion at a valuation of $1 billion. In 2017, L Catterton acquired a majority stake in Ganni but subsequently sold Everlane to Shein. Apax later divested Matches to Frasers Group for €60 million, resulting in bankruptcy. Reformation went public in July but faced disappointing stock performance. Noura Sakkijha from Mejuri noted a previous funding surge, while Jamie Haller expanded her brand by 450% without external investment. Mireia Llusia-Lindh's Demellier achieved a 60% increase in sales. Santo Domingo also founded St Dominique Capital, investing in Nordic Knots and The Row.

Key facts

  • Lauren Santo Domingo co-founded Moda Operandi in New York in 2010.
  • Moda Operandi raised $165m (€142m) led by Apax Digital Growth.
  • Apax acquired Matches Fashion at a $1bn (€860m) valuation.
  • L Catterton took a majority stake in Ganni in 2017.
  • Apax sold Matches to Frasers Group for €60m, leading to bankruptcy.
  • Reformation went public in July with falling stock prices.
  • Jamie Haller's brand grew 450 per cent between 2023 and 2024 without outside investment.
  • Demellier's sales grew 60 per cent last year.

Entities

Artists

  • Lauren Santo Domingo
  • Noura Sakkijha
  • Jamie Haller
  • Eshita Kabra-Davies
  • Mireia Llusia-Lindh
  • David Wertheimer
  • Gérard Wertheimer

Institutions

  • Moda Operandi
  • Apax Digital Growth
  • Apax
  • Matches Fashion
  • L Catterton
  • LVMH
  • Ganni
  • Anine Bing
  • Felix Capital
  • Index Ventures
  • Mejuri
  • Everlane
  • Shein
  • Reformation
  • Frasers Group
  • By Rotation
  • Demellier
  • 1686 Partners
  • Ahlem
  • Satisfy
  • St Dominique Capital
  • Nordic Knots
  • The Row
  • Monocle

Locations

  • New York
  • United States
  • Copenhagen
  • Denmark
  • Los Angeles
  • London
  • United Kingdom
  • Luxembourg

Sources