Private Equity's Fashion Bet Falters as Founders Embrace Bootstrapping and New Funding Models
According to interviews conducted by Monocle, the venture of private equity into the fashion industry has largely been unsuccessful. Lauren Santo Domingo, who co-founded Moda Operandi in 2010, secured $165 million in funding led by Apax Digital Growth, which purchased Matches Fashion at a valuation of $1 billion. In 2017, L Catterton acquired a majority stake in Ganni but subsequently sold Everlane to Shein. Apax later divested Matches to Frasers Group for €60 million, resulting in bankruptcy. Reformation went public in July but faced disappointing stock performance. Noura Sakkijha from Mejuri noted a previous funding surge, while Jamie Haller expanded her brand by 450% without external investment. Mireia Llusia-Lindh's Demellier achieved a 60% increase in sales. Santo Domingo also founded St Dominique Capital, investing in Nordic Knots and The Row.
Key facts
- Lauren Santo Domingo co-founded Moda Operandi in New York in 2010.
- Moda Operandi raised $165m (€142m) led by Apax Digital Growth.
- Apax acquired Matches Fashion at a $1bn (€860m) valuation.
- L Catterton took a majority stake in Ganni in 2017.
- Apax sold Matches to Frasers Group for €60m, leading to bankruptcy.
- Reformation went public in July with falling stock prices.
- Jamie Haller's brand grew 450 per cent between 2023 and 2024 without outside investment.
- Demellier's sales grew 60 per cent last year.
Entities
Artists
- Lauren Santo Domingo
- Noura Sakkijha
- Jamie Haller
- Eshita Kabra-Davies
- Mireia Llusia-Lindh
- David Wertheimer
- Gérard Wertheimer
Institutions
- Moda Operandi
- Apax Digital Growth
- Apax
- Matches Fashion
- L Catterton
- LVMH
- Ganni
- Anine Bing
- Felix Capital
- Index Ventures
- Mejuri
- Everlane
- Shein
- Reformation
- Frasers Group
- By Rotation
- Demellier
- 1686 Partners
- Ahlem
- Satisfy
- St Dominique Capital
- Nordic Knots
- The Row
- Monocle
Locations
- New York
- United States
- Copenhagen
- Denmark
- Los Angeles
- London
- United Kingdom
- Luxembourg
Sources
- Monocle —