ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

PH5 Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear: Zoe Champion and Wei Lin Return to Dongguan Roots

other · 2026-09-11

For PH5's Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection, designer Zoe Champion and brand founder and CEO Wei Lin returned to the label's origins: the factory in Dongguan operated by Lin's mother, Liqin Cheng, who rose from an entry-level position. Lin rejected the sweatshop stereotype, emphasizing the genuine passion for knitwear shared by her mother and the workers. That homey atmosphere influenced the season's patterns, including one derived from a photograph of flowers Cheng planted around the building and others from a nearby park where staff relax. The collection explored both natural and cultural roots, incorporating a qipao-style dress and frog closures that referenced traditional Chinese dress. Champion pointed to a growing interest in Chinese culture, citing the TikTok trend of 'Chinamaxxing.' Lin noted that since China opened its borders to many countries, she constantly sees foreigners, which she believes has helped bridge the gap between media portrayals and the reality of China. The technically marvelous, no-waste garments are designed for visibility—some even change colors in light—leaving little gray area for consumers. Standouts included a water lily dress that mixed large and small patterns, reading almost like a tapestry, and 'mixed media' pieces such as a desirable corset paired with cropped wide-legged pants, which were more harmonious than in past seasons. With bright colors, representational motifs, and signature wave hems, the brand remains an eyeful.

Key facts

  • PH5's Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection was designed by Zoe Champion with brand founder and CEO Wei Lin.
  • The collection drew inspiration from the brand's factory in Dongguan, run by Lin's mother, Liqin Cheng.
  • One pattern was derived from a photograph of flowers Cheng planted around the factory; others came from a nearby park where staff relax.
  • The collection included a qipao-style dress and frog closures referencing traditional Chinese dress.
  • Champion cited the TikTok trend 'Chinamaxxing' as an example of growing interest in Chinese culture.
  • Lin said that since China opened its borders to many countries, she sees foreigners everywhere, helping bridge perceptions of China.
  • The no-waste garments are designed to attract attention, with some changing colors in light.
  • Standout pieces included a water lily dress with mixed patterns and a corset with cropped wide-legged pants.

Entities

Artists

  • Zoe Champion
  • Wei Lin
  • Liqin Cheng

Institutions

  • PH5
  • TikTok
  • Vogue

Locations

  • Dongguan
  • China

Sources