Olivier Theyskens Launches Boloria with Dreamlike SS27 Show in Paris

Olivier Theyskens debuted his new Belgian label Boloria with a Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear show on the Paris catwalks, two days after Madonna's new album release. The show opened with full-skirted romanticism, featuring crinoline skirts like panniers, organza dresses in purple and blue with silverfish embroideries, and 18th-century taffeta coats. Theyskens aimed for a dreamlike quality, with male models in white cloaks and museum cases filled with grey haze. The collection blended fragments of history, evoking the 1940s, 1970s, and 19th century, rooted in Belgian colors and landscapes. Boloria, founded last year, is based in Antwerp, a port city, influencing waxed jackets and trench coats. Details included thick hems, satin revers, and ribbon inside pockets. Theyskens' signature bias-cut appeared in womenswear and menswear, with colors like pale blues, greys, and plaster pink. Materials included silk lace from Bruxelles (now made in Italy), ribbed knits like hosiery, and silk resembling pyjamas. The collection balanced fantastical gowns with wearable daywear, lined in silk with period details. A 20-year retrospective of Theyskens' career, titled "She Walks in Beauty," was staged in 2018.