London Fashion Week SS27: Burberry, ERDEM, Susan Fang and More Stretch British Codes
At London Fashion Week, six collections for Spring/Summer 2027 highlighted innovative interpretations of British fashion. Burberry, under the direction of Daniel Lee, combined Celia Birtwell's prints with washed silk and cotton, enhanced by embroidery and distinctive accessories. Patrick McDowell's "Love" collection showcased tailored natural fabrics with hand-embroidered pieces and a handbag line inspired by English gardens. Susan Fang's designs, influenced by M. Butterfly, featured tulle and digital prints. ERDEM examined gender through the lens of Barbette, offering a variety of silhouettes. George Trochopoulos concluded his label's journey with striking knitwear. Dimitra Petsa's "Holy Milk" represented birth through organic designs, while 5000 premiered with Taylor Thompson's fashion exploration of home.
Key facts
- London Fashion Week's Spring/Summer 2027 collections emphasized British structure, tailoring, eccentricity, and heritage codes loosened through embellishment, transparency, color, and movement.
- Burberry returned to Chelsea College of Arts for its fourth show at the venue, with Daniel Lee using prints by British textile designer Celia Birtwell.
- Patrick McDowell won this year's BFC Fashion Trust prize and presented "Love," a limited-run collection with Pandora embroidery, an Aspinal of London handbag line, and Certilogo QR authentication.
- Susan Fang's SS27 collection draws on M. Butterfly and coincides with a new production at La Monnaie / De Munt opening in April 2027, for which she is designing costumes.
- ERDEM's collection was framed by Barbette, the stage name of American female impersonator and trapeze artist Vander Clyde Broadway, active in the 1920s and '30s.
- George Trochopoulos closed his label's first chapter with a collection made in-house by a team of three, almost entirely in knit.
- DI PETSA's "Holy Milk" featured Awe Inspired jewelry, with models carrying babies and glasses of milk on the runway.
- 5000's London Fashion Week debut comprised sixteen predominantly black looks by Taylor Thompson, staged inside the Devon Ojas Listening Room and inspired by Gil Scott-Heron's Pieces of a Man.
Entities
Artists
- Daniel Lee
- Celia Birtwell
- Patrick McDowell
- Susan Fang
- René Gallimard
- Song Liling
- Barbette
- Vander Clyde Broadway
- George Trochopoulos
- Dimitra Petsa
- Taylor Thompson
- Gil Scott-Heron
- Stefan Knauer
- Jason Lloyd-Evans
- Phillip Raheem
Institutions
- London Fashion Week
- Burberry
- Chelsea College of Arts
- ERDEM
- British Fashion Council
- BFC Fashion Trust
- Pandora
- Aspinal of London
- Certilogo
- La Monnaie / De Munt
- SUSAN FANG x Crocs Echo Blume
- DI PETSA
- Awe Inspired
- 5000
- Devon Ojas Listening Room
- Whitewall
Locations
- London
- United Kingdom
- New York
- United States
- Paris
- France
- Belgium