ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Laura Urbinati: The Italian Buyer Who Championed Martin Margiela

artist · 2026-06-27

Laura Urbinati, an Italian buyer and entrepreneur, has been a key figure in the success of Martin Margiela since 1989. She was among the first to order from the brand's early showroom in Paris, located north of Barbès, and made Margiela a cornerstone of her Los Angeles boutique. Urbinati recalls the emotional anticipation of receiving invitations to Margiela's shows and the transformative experience of his designs. She describes Margiela's genius as unparalleled, with each season requiring the effort of four collections by others. Her boutique attracted a glitterati clientele including Sofia Coppola and Angelica Huston, who were drawn to Margiela's silent, non-imposing elegance. Urbinati emphasizes the honesty and inclusivity of Margiela's world, where all customers were treated equally regardless of status. The article includes a fashion editorial photographed by Alessandro Timpanaro, styled by Ariel Bretas, with art direction by Amir Capogrossi Badreddine.

Key facts

  • Laura Urbinati has been a buyer of Martin Margiela since 1989.
  • She made Margiela a core brand of her Los Angeles boutique.
  • Urbinati was among the first to order at Margiela's early showroom near Barbès, Paris.
  • She compares the experience of Margiela's shows to a Pina Bausch performance or a one-way flight to New York for a Basquiat exhibition.
  • Margiela's designs are described as a holistic investigation of clothing and its wearer.
  • Urbinati's boutique attracted clients like Sofia Coppola and Angelica Huston.
  • She notes that Margiela's brand was appreciated by the intellectual industry scene in Los Angeles.
  • The article features photography by Alessandro Timpanaro and styling by Ariel Bretas.

Entities

Artists

Institutions

  • Maison Martin Margiela
  • Artribune
  • Chateau Marmont
  • Clements Ribeiro
  • Dirk van Saene
  • Helmut Lang

Locations

  • Genk
  • Belgium
  • Paris
  • France
  • Barbès
  • Los Angeles
  • United States
  • Rome
  • Italy
  • Pesaro
  • Milan
  • Malibu
  • New York

Sources