ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Laboratorio Riciclo Pelle's Heretical Fashion: SS27 Collection at Milan Fashion Week 2026

exhibition · 2026-10-07

Laboratorio Riciclo Pelle (L.R.P.) presented its Spring/Summer 2027 (SS27) collection during Milan Fashion Week 2026, titled 'Quello che non sei' (What You Are Not), inspired by Pier Paolo Pasolini's 1968 film Teorema. The collection critiques bourgeois conformity, inertia, and formalism, using the film's disruptive guest as a theoretical framework. Founded by Giovanni Mareschi and Christian Morabito, who met at Veins Books, L.R.P. operates from a former pastry laboratory in Viale Monza, Nolo, Milan. The duo internalizes all production, crafting garments by hand from recycled leather and end-of-series fabrics. The show featured a live performance by post-grunge band ESERA, and models wore lace blindfolds. Key pieces include a merino wool coat with camel hair, a leather trouser with a tailored crease, and a black leather dress with silk taffeta lining. L.R.P. draws on Belgian and London scenes, citing Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, A.F. Vandevorst, and Hussein Chalayan. They have collaborated with musicians Ghali and Emis Skilla, and performed live craftsmanship at Arci Bellezza and DKR. The project reinterprets Italian leather goods tradition, akin to early Gucci, Prada, Fendi, and Bottega Veneta, with a radical, contemporary, and heretical approach.

Key facts

  • Laboratorio Riciclo Pelle (L.R.P.) presented its SS27 collection during Milan Fashion Week 2026.
  • The collection is titled 'Quello che non sei' and is inspired by Pier Paolo Pasolini's 1968 film Teorema.
  • L.R.P. was founded by Giovanni Mareschi and Christian Morabito, who met at Veins Books in Milan.
  • The brand operates from a former pastry laboratory in Viale Monza, Nolo, Milan.
  • The show featured a live performance by post-grunge band ESERA.
  • Key materials include recycled leather, end-of-series fabrics, merino wool, and camel hair.
  • L.R.P. has collaborated with musicians Ghali and Emis Skilla, who wear pieces called 'Late Dusk'.
  • The project draws on Belgian and London fashion scenes, referencing Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, A.F. Vandevorst, and Hussein Chalayan.

Entities

Artists

  • Giovanni Mareschi
  • Christian Morabito
  • Carlotta Campus
  • Filippo Vergerio
  • Stefano Gallici
  • Pier Paolo Pasolini
  • Silvana Mangano
  • Monica Bonvicini
  • Dries Van Noten
  • Ann Demeulemeester
  • A.F. Vandevorst
  • Hussein Chalayan
  • Ghali
  • Emis Skilla

Institutions

  • Laboratorio Riciclo Pelle
  • ESERA
  • Germi
  • Veins Books
  • Ann Demeulemeester
  • SYNTHETIC NOISE
  • Arci Bellezza
  • DKR
  • Gucci
  • Prada
  • Fendi
  • Bottega Veneta
  • TAMOIL Italia

Locations

  • Milan
  • Italy
  • Viale Monza
  • Nolo
  • Antwerp
  • Belgium
  • London
  • Manchester
  • Paris
  • Florence
  • Vicenza

Sources