Jonathan Simkhai Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear: Leather, Knits, and Jelly-Coated Denim

For his Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection, Jonathan Simkhai deliberately avoided typical spring fabrics, instead focusing on leather and knit innovations. The show opened with a black leather T-shirt dress featuring a white hand-rolled chiffon fringe underneath. Leather dominated: men's cream or black two-piece leather suits with a '90s feel, and women's fully-fringed leather maxi dresses that swept the floor. Some leather pieces, particularly boxier brushed-suede jackets in bright colors paired with high-collared shirts, drew comparisons to Loewe and Celine, which critics noted felt less directional for Simkhai. Fringing also appeared in knitwear via sculptural, tiered tank dresses. Simkhai's most innovative knitwear was jelly-coated tanks that look like rubber but have a high-shine coating, making them comfortable and not stiff. The jelly finish was also applied to denim pants and jackets. The most technical looks came at the end, inspired by odd flowers like pincushion flowers on his moodboard. These included shaggy white tops and skirts made from strips of organza, chiffon, and paillettes, cut with asymmetrical hemlines and paired with satin tuxedo coats. Simkhai stated he wanted to try new things and challenge himself, describing the process as quite simple. The collection reflects current fashion where seasons are less rigid, as consumers buy coats in summer and bikinis in winter.