Jonathan Cohen Debuts at J. Mendel With Spring 2027 Show on One World Trade Center's 102nd Floor

Jonathan Cohen unveiled his inaugural collection as the resident creative director of J. Mendel on the 102nd floor of One World Trade Center, successfully merging the brand's uptown elegance with a downtown vibe. This collection was the first from J. Mendel to be reviewed by Vogue Runway since 2022. Established in 1870 in St. Petersburg as a fur house, the brand moved to Paris until 1981, when Gilles Mendel opened a branch in New York City; he has not been linked to the label since 2018. Ready-to-wear debuted in 2002 as fur's popularity waned. Cohen's approach involves transitioning from evening to day(ish) wear, with the opening look featuring slim trousers and a flowing red chiffon top. Highlights included a leather jacket crafted on a fur machine and Look 15, a short pink design inspired by Britney Spears. However, some pieces were criticized for overly tight fits and a nostalgic feel, prompting suggestions for a focus on New York City's raw energy in future designs.