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Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Debuts Matisse-Inspired Capsule at Tate Modern

exhibition · 2026-09-18

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake unveiled the second installment of its Open Studio series at Tate Modern in London, reinterpreting Henri Matisse's The Snail (1953) through a live performance and a limited-edition capsule collection. Dancers from the Dresden Frankfurt Dance Company showcased a piece inspired by pleated clothing. Matisse, who created The Snail while lying in bed in Nice, completed the nearly three-meter square artwork, featuring a spiral design reminiscent of a snail. Open Studio was initiated in 2025 to explore new presentations. The capsule collection, which includes a cardigan, tunic, T-shirt, long-sleeved top, crossbody bag, and scarf, will be available at Tate Shops starting 17 September 2026 and at Issey Miyake stores from January 2027.

Key facts

  • Homme Plissé Issey Miyake presented the second edition of Open Studio at Tate Modern in London earlier this week.
  • The event featured dancers from Dresden Frankfurt Dance Company performing Ioannis Mandafounis's One One One between sessions of uncovering Matisse's The Snail.
  • Henri Matisse created The Snail in Nice in 1953, the year before his death, using gouache-painted paper cut-outs.
  • The Snail is nearly three metres square and features a loose spiral of shapes inspired by the 'unrolling' of a snail.
  • Open Studio began in 2025 when Homme Plissé stepped off the Paris show calendar; the first edition was at Villa Medicea della Petraia during Pitti Uomo.
  • The capsule collection, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake for Tate, includes a printed cardigan, tunic, T-shirt, long-sleeved top, crossbody bag, and diamond-shaped scarf.
  • The capsule will be available from 17 September 2026 at Tate Shops and shop.tate.org.uk, then from January 2027 at Issey Miyake stores in Tokyo, Osaka, and London.
  • The design team collaborated with Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck, whose theatre background informed the layered set design.
  • Homme Plissé previously worked with Ronan Bouroullec on its A/W 2024 collection, shown at Palais de Tokyo.

Entities

Artists

Institutions

  • Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
  • Tate Modern
  • Dresden Frankfurt Dance Company
  • Studio Dennis Vanderbroeck
  • Villa Medicea della Petraia
  • Pitti Uomo
  • Palais de Tokyo
  • Wallpaper*
  • Tate Shops
  • Issey Miyake
  • SO-IL
  • Dezeen
  • HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
  • ISSEY MIYAKE INC.
  • Succession H. Matisse
  • Artists Rights Society (ARS)
  • designboom
  • SolidNature

Locations

  • London
  • United Kingdom
  • Nice
  • France
  • Paris
  • Tokyo
  • Japan
  • Osaka
  • Dresden
  • Germany
  • Frankfurt
  • Italy
  • New York
  • United States
  • Milan
  • South Tank

Sources