ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

H&M Studio Fall 2026: Nick Knight's ShowStudio Production Blends Performance and Fashion

other · 2026-09-18

At H&M Studio's Fall 2026 ready-to-wear show, Nick Knight, founder of ShowStudio, conceived a production that featured three protesters given dedicated runway slots, prompting speculation about reverse guerrilla marketing. The event included a spoken word rendition of Foreigner's "I Want to Know What Love Is" and models walking in darkness with paparazzi flashguns, closing before a screen with a gouache-tinted mirror effect reminiscent of A-ha's "Take on Me" video. Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M's Womenswear Head of Design with nearly 40 years at the company, drew inspiration from a research trip to Palermo and the chiaroscuro photography of Bagheria-born Magnum photographer Fernando Scianna. The collection contrasted structure—slim dark tailoring, tightly-darted shirting, light corseting—with sensuality—lace-edged satin skirts, slip dresses, loose day pajamas. Details included horsehair-fringed low-heeled pumps, doubled cuffs and collars, scrunched black silky-satin faux-underpinnings, and white laced nightshirting. Johansson described the Studio woman as someone for whom "things can't look too proper." Strong-shouldered Monteco wool overcoats and low-armholed, shawl-collared rib knits emphasized movement, while embroidered foliage clusters adorned dresses and skirts. The show merged physical and digital fashion image creation, though the critic noted a desire to see more of the clothes themselves.

Key facts

  • Nick Knight conceived the H&M Studio Fall 2026 show.
  • Three protesters were given exclusive runway slots during the show.
  • Ann-Sofie Johansson is H&M's Womenswear Head of Design and has been with the company for nearly 40 years.
  • The collection was inspired by a research trip to Palermo and the photography of Fernando Scianna.
  • The show included a spoken word rendition of Foreigner's 'I Want to Know What Love Is'.
  • Models walked in darkness with paparazzi flashguns and later before a screen with a gouache-tinted mirror effect.
  • The collection featured Monteco wool overcoats and rib knits with low armholes and shawl collars.
  • Johansson described the Studio woman as someone for whom 'things can't look too proper.'

Entities

Artists

  • Nick Knight
  • Ann-Sofie Johansson
  • Fernando Scianna
  • Federico Fellini

Institutions

  • H&M
  • ShowStudio
  • Magnum Photos
  • Dolce & Gabbana
  • A-ha

Locations

  • London
  • United Kingdom
  • Palermo
  • Italy
  • Bagheria

Sources