Dermatologists Evaluate Polyglutamic Acid as Hydrating Alternative to Hyaluronic Acid
According to a report by Vogue featuring dermatologists, polyglutamic acid (PGA), which is obtained from fermented soybeans, is gaining recognition as a humectant for skin care. Taryn Huizenga describes it as an agent that retains moisture, while Aderonke Obayomi points out its capacity to create a barrier that minimizes water evaporation. Asmi Berry mentions that PGA can inhibit hyaluronidase, although most supporting evidence comes from laboratory studies. One study claims that PGA can hold 4,000 times its weight in water, but it lacks direct comparisons on skin. While hyaluronic acid is still the benchmark for hydration, Huizenga recommends using both ingredients together. Suggested products include Byoma Phyto Mucin Glow Serum ($16) and Cetaphil Deep Hydration Water Gel ($22).
Key facts
- Polyglutamic acid is a peptide chain of glutamic acid derived from fermented soybeans
- PGA acts as a humectant, binding and retaining water at the skin's surface
- Claims of 4,000 times its weight in water and quadruple hyaluronic acid hydration come from one lab study, with no head-to-head skin comparison
- PGA inhibits hyaluronidase, the enzyme that breaks down the skin's own hyaluronic acid, per largely laboratory evidence
- Hyaluronic acid has more clinical evidence and remains the gold standard for hydration
- Obayomi recommends layering hyaluronic acid serum, then PGA serum, then moisturizer
- Queller says higher PGA concentrations lack clinical evidence of proportionally better results
- Vogue's picks range from The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum at $17 to Dermalogica and Skinfix serums at $69
Entities
Artists
- Taryn Huizenga
- Aderonke Obayomi
- Asmi Berry
- Jenna Queller
Institutions
- Vogue
- Spring Street Dermatology
- Byoma
- Cetaphil
- Prequel Skin
- Dermalogica
- Skinfix
- The Inkey List
- National Eczema Association
Locations
- New York City
- United States
- Los Angeles
- Boca Raton
- Florida