Chitose Abe on sacai's Design Philosophy: Stability and Betrayal

Since founding sacai in 1999, Chitose Abe has built a fashion label on the tension between opposites: tailoring with knitwear, utilitarian garments softened by pleats, and familiar silhouettes destabilized through unexpected construction. Early collections fused MA-1 bombers with dresses, quickly distinguishing the brand. Collaborations with Nike, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander Girard, Sou Fujimoto, and Hank Willis Thomas expanded sacai's language beyond the runway. Abe describes her design philosophy as a balance between "stability and betrayal," rooted in precision and restraint. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection, presented at sacai's new Parisian home on Rue Cassette, featured oversized, deconstructed silhouettes. Abe emphasizes that every creative decision carries meaning, and the right balance is achieved when the team collectively feels "This is what we want to wear." She values curiosity and daily life in Tokyo as inspiration, and only pursues collaborations she genuinely finds interesting. Iconic pieces like MA-1 jackets and knits serve as a foundation to create items "no one has ever seen before." Abe hopes sacai resonates with those who connect with its vision, even if not embraced by the majority.