Chicory's Culinary and Artistic Journey: From Venetian Lagoons to Global Plates
In late May, a writer journeyed to Venice's Grand Canal to investigate the chicories of Northern Italy but faced challenges, including a boat hire office that was closed, which cost 80 euros, and unavailable dishes at Osteria Venissa. This visit took place during the only season when chicories are not available. Chicories have gained popularity in American cuisine, appearing in salads at venues like King in New York, Lula Cafe in Chicago, and Ètra in Los Angeles. Artistic depictions, such as Leandro Bassano's Les Noces de Cana (circa 1579) housed at the Louvre, highlight their cultural significance. During lunch at Cappello, Andrea Ghedina, cofounder of Smarties.bio, discussed blanching Radicchio Tardivo. The writer also explored fields cultivating Treviso and eight Chioggia varieties. At Namelaka, Chef Michael Trolese presented a radicchio-themed menu, while the writer prepared risotto di Treviso alongside steak and braised radicchio.
Key facts
- The writer's trip to Venice in late May to explore chicories was marked by a closed office for a private boat hire, costing 80 euros, and unavailable chicory dishes at Osteria Venissa on Mazzorbo.
- Chicories have become popular in American restaurants such as King in New York, Lula Cafe in Chicago, and Ètra in Los Angeles.
- Leandro Bassano's painting Les Noces de Cana (circa 1579) is in the Louvre, and Rachel Antonoff's spring 2025 collection featured a radicchio dress.
- Cichorium intybus includes varieties like Catalogna, pan di zucchero, and radicchio, with over a dozen radicchio types such as radicchio di Chioggia and radicchio di Treviso.
- Andrea Ghedina, cofounder of Smarties.bio in Chioggia, explained that blanching or forcing involves digging up radicchio Tardivo and forcing it in lightless conditions for two weeks to develop sugar and avoid freezing.
- Lane Selman, an agricultural science professor at Oregon State University, coauthored Radicchio: A Celebration of the Beloved Italian Vegetable.
- At Ghedina's test fields, eight varieties of Chioggia radicchio (Vesuvio, Stromboli, Teide, Etna, Hekla, Santa Helena, Amiata, Vulcano) and five Verona varieties (Alpone, Pasqualino, Romeo, Gaia, Scala) were observed.
- Chef Michael Trolese at Namelaka in Campagna Lupia served a five-course radicchio menu, including insalatina di variegato and involtini di precoce.
Entities
Artists
- Leandro Bassano
- Rachel Antonoff
- Andrea Ghedina
- Lane Selman
- Michael Trolese
- Pliny the Elder
Institutions
- Osteria Venissa
- King
- Lula Cafe
- Ètra
- Louvre
- Smarties.bio
- Oregon State University
- Cappello
- Namelaka
Locations
- Venice
- Italy
- Grand Canal
- Mazzorbo
- New York
- Chicago
- Los Angeles
- Chioggia
- Rosolina
- Campagna Lupia
- Veneto
- Belgium