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Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson Discusses Travel, Japan, and Culinary Inspiration in Wallpaper* Interview

other · 2026-10-14

In an interview with Wallpaper* titled 'In Transit,' chef Merlin Labron-Johnson discusses his travel experiences. Born in Devon, he achieved his first Michelin star at 24 while at Portland in London and launched Osip in Bruton in 2019, focusing on farm-to-table dining. His new venture, Pharmacy Field Kitchen, created with Zsuzsanna Toth and Marc Ackland, offers farm dinners and private events where guests can harvest their own produce. Labron-Johnson's culinary journey includes stints in kitchens across Switzerland, France, and Belgium. Recently back from a road trip in France, he plans to visit Athens and Tokyo next. He values travel for inspiration, cherishes rural Somerset, and prefers window seats and evening flights. His favorite snack is onigiri, and he enjoys listening to Leonard Cohen. The interview was conducted by Sofia de la Cruz, Wallpaper*’s Travel Editor, who won Young Arts Journalist of the Year in 2026.

Key facts

  • Merlin Labron-Johnson is a Devon-born chef who earned London's Portland its first Michelin star at age 24.
  • He opened Osip in Bruton in 2019, focusing on farm-to-kitchen connections.
  • His latest project, Pharmacy Field Kitchen, was developed with Zsuzsanna Toth and Marc Ackland, joint head chefs at The Pharmacy.
  • Labron-Johnson's early career included kitchens in Switzerland, France, and Belgium.
  • He recently returned from a French road trip and plans to visit Athens and Tokyo next.
  • He considers Japan the place that resonates most with him and cites Japan, Mexico, and India as influencing his cooking.
  • His favorite souvenirs are Japanese kitchen tools: handmade urushi chopsticks, scissors, and a mottled steel side ladle.
  • The interview was conducted by Sofia de la Cruz, Travel Editor at Wallpaper*, who in 2026 won Young Arts Journalist of the Year.

Entities

Artists

  • Merlin Labron-Johnson
  • Olivia Anderson
  • Zsuzsanna Toth
  • Marc Ackland
  • Sofia de la Cruz
  • Pujan
  • Leonard Cohen

Institutions

  • Osip
  • The Pharmacy
  • Pharmacy Field Kitchen
  • Portland
  • Wallpaper*
  • Chartered Institute of Journalists

Locations

  • France
  • Somerset
  • Devon
  • Switzerland
  • Belgium
  • London
  • Bruton
  • Athens
  • Tokyo
  • Japan
  • Mexico
  • India
  • Himalayas
  • Beaune
  • Burgundy

Sources