Cartier's diamond menagerie: from Nazi resistance brooch to Maria Félix's crocodile necklace

A major exhibition at NGV International in Melbourne showcases Cartier's animal-themed jewellery, spanning from the 1910s to 2012. The show includes a 1942 caged bird brooch created during Nazi occupation as a symbol of resistance, designed under Jeanne Toussaint, who was interrogated by the Gestapo. A 1944 pendant depicts the bird freed after liberation. Highlights include the Duchess of Windsor's flamingo brooch (commissioned by the Duke), a 152.35-carat Kashmir sapphire panther brooch, and Maria Félix's crocodile necklace (1960s) and snake necklace with Mexican flag colours. A 1928 mystery clock for the Maharaja of Nawanagar features an 18th-century jade elephant from China. The exhibition also covers Cartier's rivalry with Fabergé, use of Australian opals and jade, and techniques like straw marquetry in a 2012 koala watch. Curators Amanda Dunsmore and Miranda Wallace provide commentary. The show runs from 12 June to 4 October.