Black Takes Over A/W 2026 Runways: A Fashion Statement of Substance
During the A/W 2026 fashion season, black dominated the collections of prominent designers, with Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi and Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons leading the way. In her inaugural collection as Fendi's chief creative officer, Chiuri showcased a stark, practical black wardrobe, asserting, "Fashion is not entertainment. Fashion is a job." Kawakubo presented 21 all-black outfits, complemented by six in sweet pink, declaring black as "the strongest, the best for creation, and the color that embodies the rebellious spirit." This trend draws inspiration from Coco Chanel's 1926 little black dress and Marlene Dietrich's all-black look. The article also pays tribute to the late Professor Louise Wilson, known for her signature black attire, and features designs from various luxury brands, styled by Jason Hughes and photographed by Liam Warwick, in the September 2026 Style Issue of Wallpaper* magazine.
Key facts
- Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted as Fendi's chief creative officer with an all-black collection.
- Rei Kawakubo showed 21 black looks at Comme des Garçons, with six in pink.
- Chiuri said: 'Fashion is not entertainment. Fashion is a job.'
- Kawakubo described black as 'the strongest, the best for creation, and the colour that embodies the rebellious spirit.'
- Coco Chanel's 1926 little black dress was billed as 'the frock that all the world will wear.'
- Marlene Dietrich wore a black Balenciaga dress and said 'I dress for the image.'
- Yohji Yamamoto's 1981 Paris collection featured black menswear tailoring for women.
- Azzedine Alaïa said 'Black is the most important colour for me. It is what I start with when I create a model.'
- Professor Louise Wilson of Central Saint Martins was known for her all-black uniform.
- The feature is from the September 2026 Style Issue of Wallpaper* magazine.
Entities
Artists
- Maria Grazia Chiuri
- Rei Kawakubo
- Coco Chanel
- Marlene Dietrich
- Yohji Yamamoto
- Azzedine Alaïa
- Louise Wilson
- Matthieu Blazy
- Jason Hughes
- Liam Warwick
- Waleska Gorczevski
- Tobias Blackmore
- Franklin Headen
- Christos Bairabas
- Claire Urquhart
- Saffron Goddard
- John Cronin
- Louise Oates
- Tamibe Bourdanne
- Pete Hargroves
- Lucy Proctor
- Nathan Fox
- Paula Salinas
- Aurélie Simon
- Archie Thomson
- Ady Huq
- Indy Davy
- Milita Nagelyte
- Dal Chodha
- David Horan
- Harvey Guzzini
- Richard Sapper
- Philippe Starck
- Tom Dixon
- Eva and Peter Moritz
Institutions
- Fendi
- Comme des Garçons
- Chanel
- Dior
- Jil Sander
- Calvin Klein
- Tom Ford
- Gucci
- Loewe
- Alaïa
- Celine
- Prada
- Bottega Veneta
- Wallpaper*
- Central Saint Martins
- Béton Brut
- Monument
- Granger Hertzog
- USM
- Buchanan Studio
- Minimalux
- SCP
- Georg Jensen
- Artemide
- Fasem
- Ikea
- Models 1
- Lalaland
- Julian Watson Agency
- Fenty Beauty
- Oribe
- Studio Wayne McGregor
- Archivist Addendum
- Apple
- Vogue
- The Observer
Locations
- Paris
- London
- France
- United Kingdom