ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Barrel-Leg Denim: From Alaïa's Fall 2023 Runway to a Wardrobe Staple

other · 2026-08-31

Since Pieter Mulier introduced barrel-leg denim, also referred to as horseshoe or balloon-leg denim, during Alaïa's fall 2023 runway show, this style has surged in popularity. Characterized by a hip-hitting cut that tapers at the ankle, its roots lie in workwear designed for ease of movement. Vogue explored several styles, including B Sides' Slim Lasso High-Rise Barrel Leg Jeans, Kallmeyer's Callum Barrel-Leg Jeans, Khaite's Karo Denim, Róhe's Berber Barrel-Leg Denim, Agolde's Luna Denim, Levi's Drop Barrel jeans, Mother's Half Pipe Denim, and COS's Bay Barrel Leg jeans. For those who prefer a relaxed fit, DL1961's Taylor Ultra Rise High Rise Denim is an excellent option for wide-leg enthusiasts.

Key facts

  • Barrel-leg denim is also known as horseshoe or balloon-leg denim
  • Pieter Mulier showed the silhouette on Alaïa's fall 2023 runway
  • The shape originated in workwear for freedom of movement
  • B Sides' Slim Lasso High-Rise Barrel Leg Jeans come in rigid denim and multiple washes
  • Kallmeyer's Callum Barrel-Leg Jeans were tried at the brand's Lower East Side flagship
  • Khaite's Karo Denim has a 32-inch inseam and cuffed hem
  • Levi's Drop Barrel jeans belong to the Blue Tab collection and use Japanese denim
  • COS's Bay Barrel Leg jeans are available in six washes

Entities

Artists

Institutions

  • Alaïa
  • Vogue
  • B Sides
  • Kallmeyer
  • Khaite
  • Róhe
  • Agolde
  • Levi's
  • Mother
  • COS
  • DL1961
  • Citizens of Humanity
  • Loewe
  • Christopher Esber
  • Proenza Schouler

Locations

  • Lower East Side
  • New York
  • United States

Sources