Akris Spring/Summer 2027: Albert Kriemler Translates Martha Jungwirth's Art into Fashion at Palais de Tokyo
On October 4, at the Palais de Tokyo, Akris showcased its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, designed by Albert Kriemler and drawing inspiration from Martha Jungwirth's expressive artwork. The lineup included a transparent red silk knit gown and a red wool crêpe suit. Kriemler infused textiles with Jungwirth's tactile marks, utilizing shades of red, pink, and violet, referred to as her “Gefühlsfarben.” Born in Vienna in 1940, Jungwirth gained fame at documenta 6 in 1977 but remained relatively obscure until recent displays. Notable items featured a violet jacquard shirt jacket, a pink silk organza gown, and a yellow jacquard coat, complemented by Brushstroke-embroidered bags. The show concluded with an ecru-and-yellow silk georgette gown, encapsulating “Emotion given form.”
Key facts
- Akris Spring/Summer 2027 was presented at the Palais de Tokyo on October 4.
- Albert Kriemler drew on Martha Jungwirth's physical painting approach, including fingerprints, scratches, and shoeprints.
- The collection featured ribbons, reversed jacquards, and translucent layers translating Jungwirth's gestures.
- Jungwirth was born in Vienna in 1940 and works between abstraction and figuration, primarily on paper.
- Jungwirth gained recognition at documenta 6 in 1977 but spent decades outside the public eye before renewed attention led to exhibitions at the Albertina in 2018 and Guggenheim Museum Bilbao in 2024.
- Christine Wuerfel-Stauss, a collector and cultural patron, commented on the translation of painterly process into textile making.
- The apron motif referenced both Jungwirth's working wardrobe and Akris's origins: Alice Kriemler-Schoch opened an apron atelier in St. Gallen in 1922.
- The finale was an ecru-and-yellow Cambodia print silk georgette bustier gown with floating fringe embroidery.
Entities
Artists
- Albert Kriemler
- Martha Jungwirth
- Christine Wuerfel-Stauss
- Alice Kriemler-Schoch
- Francisco Goya
Institutions
- Akris
- Palais de Tokyo
- Albertina
- Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
- documenta
- Whitewall
Locations
- Paris
- France
- Vienna
- Austria
- Bilbao
- Spain
- St. Gallen
- Switzerland