Women's shirting evolves beyond borrowed boyfriend look

The classic button-up shirt for women is undergoing a transformation as brands design from a female perspective rather than borrowing from menswear. Olivia Villanti, founder of Mexico City-based Chava Studio, notes that men's shirts have limitations like overly long sleeves and poor fit. Lizandra Cardoni, a tailor at Budd London, observes that Chanel and Charvet's collaboration for Matthieu Blazy's first collection has drawn women to bespoke shirting. For fall, Sarah Burton at Givenchy showcased dramatic cuffs and collars, while Fendi featured shirts without collars and collars without shirts. Resort highlights include Balenciaga's button-up with a drawstring bottom and The Row's high priestly collars. Pip Durell, founder of With Nothing Underneath, says the borrowed-from-boys look sacrifices polish. Her brand, which saw sales double year-over-year, designs boyfriend shirts that sit off the shoulders with flattering button placement. Melissa Ventosa Martin of Old Stone Trade collaborates with atelier 100Hands on adjusted oversized shirts. Trish Wescoat Pound of TWP launched her line to fill a market gap for a versatile, investment-quality shirt. Lizzie Owens of 6397 attributes the trend to nostalgia and a desire for tried-and-true garments amid uncertain times.