Vogue's 1995 Feature on Haute Couture's Enduring Craft and Controversy

In a 1995 article for Vogue, Katherine Betts explores the world of haute couture, showcasing a portfolio by Irving Penn. The piece highlights the challenges faced by couture, which was declared obsolete in the 1960s with the rise of ready-to-wear fashion and was described as 'breathing very hard' during the oil crisis of the 1970s. The Wall Street Journal raised concerns about the future of France's eighteen couture houses, which depend on dwindling artisans. François Lesage revealed a significant decline in his atelier's output, from 150 to 50-60 pieces per year. Christian Lacroix cautioned about the profession's potential demise due to a shortage of craftsmen. The article also features perspectives from atelier leaders and clients, who invest $15,000-$20,000 in gowns. Next month, John Galliano will debut his first Givenchy collection, highlighting couture's close connection to the human form.