Vogue Explores Whether Sex Still Sells in Fashion

In a Vogue article, Tariro Makoni examines the tension between fashion's online portrayal of sex and real-life desire. She notes that while sexual imagery is ubiquitous on social media—such as Gucci thongs and sheer Prada looks—women's everyday attire often diverges. The contradiction arises because clothing now operates in two economies: the algorithmic, where overt sex appeal spreads rapidly, and the lived, where women dress for their actual lives. Despite sex being more visible than ever, real desire is elusive; The Atlantic's 'sex recession' and Vice's 'great unwanting' highlight this, with a RiseGuide survey showing many Gen Z choose social media over sex. Designers navigate this divide: Demna's Gucci cruise debut featured sleazy, low-rise snake-print trousers and crystalized surfaces, translating sex into Times Square language, while Matthieu Blazy's Chanel couture debut used transparent silk mousseline for a quieter sensuality. Makoni argues that sex-neutral clothes—like a Rene Barnes lariat necklace with a The Row button-down—become sensual through context. Online, signals cluster into trends; in life, desire disperses, with individual tastes varying from Alaïa to Chloé to vintage Levi's. Ultimately, sex still sells, but the fantasy has changed: modern sex appeal isn't about proving desirability but reminding women they already are.