Subversive Spring Fragrances Offer Earthy Alternatives to Traditional Florals

Wallpaper* beauty editor Mary Cleary curates a selection of unconventional spring fragrances that reject typical floral notes in favor of earthy, ambery, and industrial accords. Louis Vuitton's Ambre Levant, created by in-house perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, features oud and amber as part of the Journey to the Middle East collection, evoking desert imagery with notes of mandarin, cinnamon, white incense, labdanum, and ambergris. Horace's Mescal Musc combines davana, vetiver, guaiac wood, birch tar, and pimento pepper, handmade in Grasse by IFF. Dior's Cuir Saddle, developed by Francis Kurkdjian, reinterprets leather with florals and soft musks as an homage to the iconic Saddle bag from John Galliano's Dior S/S 2000 show. Zegna's Il Lanificio blends sheep wool and vanilla with metallic notes, inspired by founder Ermenegildo Zegna's wool mills in the Italian Alps. Astier de Villatte's Tucson captures desert dust with strawflowers, thyme, heated birch, amber, and resin. Dries Van Noten's Crazy Basil pairs vibrant basil with sandalwood and amber, crafted by perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault. These scents emphasize soil, green hills with factories, and dry desserts over traditional spring freshness.