Sex Ruled the Spring 2027 Runways, but Each Fashion Capital Spoke a Different Language

Sex was a dominant theme across the spring 2027 collections, though each fashion capital interpreted it differently. New York favored polish and sleek sportswear, yet younger designers approached the subject with gritty, irreverent downtown cool. Eckhaus Latta showed a self-assured, sexy collection featuring rolled-sleeve T-shirts, diaphanous translucent skirts, filmy see-through shifts, shoulder-baring sleeveless tops, and golden netting cut into pants and a sleeveless minidress. Emily Dawn Long cut dresses low enough in the back to expose what she calls "southern cleavage," edged the peekaboo in dainty frills, and offered keyhole jeans; her screen-printed tees include one reading Take Off Your Clothes. In Milan, sex was treated as an intellectual pursuit. Prada, with Raf Simons, focused on the skirt, styled with leather jackets, librarian sweaters, unbuttoned plaid shirts, and skimpy bras. Simone Bellotti's Jil Sander explored minimalist imperfection through creased dresses and askew coats, evoking a postcoital rush and recalling the films of Antonioni or Fellini. Paris took a frank, from-the-hip approach, exemplified by Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford collection: slick leather, men in sweaters and underwear revealing exposed buttocks, and women in gowns or maillots slashed to reveal torso and leg. The season made clear that sex was on designers' minds, with each city offering its own interpretation of carnal promise.