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Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2027 Womenswear Review: 'Stone' at Palais de Tokyo

opinion-review · 2026-10-03

At the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, Rick Owens unveiled his womenswear collection for Spring/Summer 2027, named Stone. The presentation showcased couture-inspired designs, featuring elegant evening gowns and ethereal dresses crafted from duchesse doublé satin and luxurious silk. Standout pieces included column dresses with raw edges, wiggle skirts adorned with sharp bustles, and peignoir-style dresses reminiscent of lingerie. Crystal-embellished boots added a striking element, while the final dresses showcased tufted tulle that mimicked connective tissues. Hairstylist Duffy noted that Owens stands as the last true couturier, despite his work in ready-to-wear. The review drew parallels between Owens and fashion legends like Alix Grès and Balenciaga. Previously, Owens was invited to design an haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier but was unable to do so. Harry Miller captured the collection through photography.

Key facts

  • Rick Owens presented his Spring/Summer 2027 womenswear collection titled Stone at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris.
  • The collection featured couture-tinged clothing, grand evening dresses, and gossamer gowns.
  • Owens used duchesse doublé satin recycled from industrial shipping webbing and silk woven thickly to resemble Formica.
  • Models descended a sharply angled ramp, and priapic fountains gushed halfway through the show.
  • Lingerie-inspired pieces included peignoir-style dresses, a black chiffon slither, and Fortuny-pleats made of inch-thick satin bands on tulle.
  • Crystal-crusted boots appeared as if Owens' army had rampaged through a tacky jewellery shop.
  • Finale dresses featured Gonzo-esque tufted tulle on elastic, compared by Owens to connective tissues linking bones.
  • Hairstylist Duffy called Owens the last couturier, though Owens works in ready-to-wear.
  • Owens was previously invited to create an haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier but could not participate due to timing issues.
  • The review noted Owens' single-mindedness allies him to Alix Grès, Balenciaga, Vionnet, and Charles James.
  • The collection was photographed by Harry Miller.

Entities

Artists

  • Rick Owens
  • Duffy
  • Jean Paul Gaultier
  • Alix Grès
  • Balenciaga
  • Vionnet
  • Charles James
  • Harry Miller

Institutions

Locations

  • Paris
  • France

Sources