Menswear Experts on Spring 2027 Trends, Influencers, and Retail Shifts
Ahead of the spring 2027 menswear shows in Pitti, Milan, and Paris, Vogue interviewed three experts: stylist Marcus Allen, Nordstrom fashion director Jian DeLeon, and podcast host Lawrence Schlossman. They discussed key designers like Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Michael Rider at Celine, and Ralph Lauren's resurgence. DeLeon praised Ackermann's 'elegance with '70s sleaze' and Thom Browne's denim. Allen highlighted The Row, Commission, and Raimundo Langlois for brand integrity. Schlossman noted Japanese labels URU, Niceness, Yoke, and Graphpaper. On trends, they agreed that hyper-fast cycles and algorithmic personalization have fragmented fashion. For news, they rely on Instagram, group chats, newsletters, and Vogue Runway. Retail shifts toward independent boutiques like Cueva and Colbo in New York, with vintage shopping on eBay popular. Fashion Week is seen as an industry mechanism, with 'Other Fashion Week' showrooms offering democratic access. Influencers include Wisdom Kaye and celebrities Jacob Elordi and Harry Styles, but personal style accounts with small followings are key. The past decade saw menswear become mainstream, driven by streetwear and Kanye West. Looking ahead, they predict more artisanal, vintage-feeling garments and 'treat' accent items with flair. Schlossman foresees a return to 'weirdness' after the current classic phase.
Key facts
- Spring 2027 menswear shows start in Pitti, then Milan and Paris.
- Experts: Marcus Allen (The Society Archive), Jian DeLeon (Nordstrom), Lawrence Schlossman (Throwing Fits).
- Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford praised for sexy tailoring.
- Michael Rider at Celine noted for classic, wearable designs.
- Ralph Lauren resurgence described as 'the juice is back'.
- Japanese brands URU, Niceness, Yoke, Graphpaper are emerging without fashion shows.
- Trends are superseded by 'aura' and 'vibe' due to algorithmic media.
- Fashion Week is seen as an industry mechanism; 'Other Fashion Week' showrooms are more democratic.
- Influencers include Wisdom Kaye, Jacob Elordi, Harry Styles.
- Retail shifts toward independent boutiques like Cueva, Colbo, Ven. Space Space, CHCM.
- Vintage shopping on eBay is common; Big Mac flannels from the '60s and '70s are a current fixation.
- Mad Men and JFK Jr. lookalikes are cited as cultural influences on menswear.
- Predictions include more artisanal fashion and 'treat' accent items with sequins or shine.
- Schlossman expects a period of 'weirdness' after the current classic phase.
Entities
Artists
- Haider Ackermann
- Michael Rider
- Thom Browne
- Zane Li
- Raf Simons
- Miuccia Prada
- Jonathan Anderson
- Hedi Slimane
- Kanye West
- A$AP Rocky
- Jacob Elordi
- Jeremy Allen White
- Harry Styles
- Keanu Reeves
- Brad Pitt
- Johnny Depp
- Wisdom Kaye
- Central Cee
- Julian Louie
- Marcus Allen
- Jian DeLeon
- Lawrence Schlossman
Institutions
- Vogue
- Nordstrom
- The Society Archive
- Throwing Fits
- Tom Ford
- Celine
- Ralph Lauren
- The Row
- Commission
- Raimundo Langlois
- Dries Van Noten
- Auralee
- Ssstein
- A. Presse
- URU
- Niceness
- Yoke
- Graphpaper
- Lii
- Jil Sander
- Prada
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Giorgio Armani
- Barneys
- Cueva
- Colbo
- Ven. Space Space
- CHCM
- Highsnobiety
- GQ
- Vogue Runway
- Dashwood
- High Valley Books
- Strand
- eBay
- Amazon
- MGM
- A24
- Pitti
- Paris Fashion Week
- Milan Fashion Week
- New York Fashion Week
Locations
- Pitti
- Italy
- Milan
- Paris
- France
- New York
- United States
- Japan