London's Formal Service Revival: Monocle Essay Contrasts Oslo Court with New York's Le Veau d'Or
In a piece for Monocle, Ben Drinkwater examines the evolving landscape of formal dining in London, contrasting it with New York's dining culture. He points to Oslo Court in St John's Wood, which has been under the ownership of Tony and José Sánchez since 1982, as a bastion of silver service. London has seen a revival of formal dining, featuring white tablecloths, sommeliers, and service trolleys at establishments like 45 Jermyn St and Maison François. Drinkwater references a 2014 article proclaiming the demise of 'haughty waiters' and mentions that Simpson's did not allow women until 1984. Meanwhile, Le Veau d'Or reopened in New York in 2024, led by Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, upholding its traditional charm. Drinkwater contends that the US distinguishes service from class, proposing that New York's model could disrupt entrenched norms.
Key facts
- Oslo Court in St John's Wood was taken over by Tony and José Sánchez in 1982 in the dining room of an art deco tower block.
- Le Veau d'Or on East 60th Street in New York reopened in 2024 under Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, who also run Frenchette and Le Rock.
- Simpson's in the Strand barred women from the Grand Divan until 1984.
- In 2014, one story declared the era of 'haughty waiters, hushed rooms and starched tablecloths' over.
- Jay Rayner questioned spending money on 'battalions of waiters' and signed off 'It's called progress.'
- Reed recently listed sommeliers among the country's 'roles on the rise'.
- At 45 Jermyn St, caviar and beef Wellington arrive on wheels; at Maison François, the pudding trolley has a steak-tartare sibling.
- A waiter told Drinkwater that 'the pursuit of hospitality is a commendable one.'
Entities
Artists
- Ben Drinkwater
- Tony Sánchez
- José Sánchez
- Jay Rayner
- Lee Hanson
- Riad Nasr
Institutions
- Monocle
- Oslo Court
- Reed
- 45 Jermyn St
- Maison François
- Simpson's in the Strand
- Le Veau d'Or
- Frenchette
- Le Rock
Locations
- London
- United Kingdom
- New York
- United States
- St John's Wood
- East 60th Street
- Park Avenue
- Bucksnort
- Tennessee
Sources
- Monocle —