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Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2027 Show Revives 1997 Gucci Seduction Codes

opinion-review · 2026-10-01

For the Spring/Summer 2027 collection by Tom Ford, creative director Haider Ackermann drew inspiration from the iconic 1997 Gucci thong. The runway showcased daring cut-out swimsuits and provocative thongs for men, highlighting themes of seduction. Surrounded by smoky mirrors, the catwalk fostered a voyeuristic vibe, with models of various genders engaging closely. The collection boasted flowing satins, cashmere, structured tailoring, and a relaxed catwalking approach. Hair stylist Guido Palau styled male models with half-shaved heads, a nod to Tom Ford's legacy. Underwear took center stage with thongs, swimsuits, and structured brassières, alongside denim, cottons, and poplin shirts. Ackermann expressed his vision, saying, "The most seductive thing is anticipation."

Key facts

  • Haider Ackermann presented Tom Ford's Spring/Summer 2027 collection.
  • The show referenced 1997 Gucci thongs and other Tom Ford archive moments.
  • Ackermann stated, "Seduction is the pillar on which this house is built."
  • The catwalk was flanked by smoky mirrors to evoke voyeurism.
  • Guido Palau gave some male models half-shaved heads.
  • The collection included thongs, swimsuits, high-waisted briefs, and a structured satin brassière.
  • A 2002 sheer burgundy bodysuit and 2003 red finale dresses were reinterpreted.
  • Ackermann described seduction as anticipation: "A gaze held a second too long..."

Entities

Artists

Institutions

  • Tom Ford
  • Gucci
  • Saint Laurent

Sources