Examining the Brigade System's Role in Fine Dining Work Conditions

The traditional brigade system, established by Auguste Escoffier in the late 19th century, remains a foundational organizational model in high-end kitchens, characterized by rigid hierarchies and specialized roles. Recent scrutiny has arisen following investigations into abuse and mistreatment at Noma in Copenhagen, led by chef René Redzepi, who resigned. Similar accounts from former employees of other Michelin-starred venues suggest the system's structure may exacerbate harsh conditions, including long hours and pressure. Despite this, the brigade model is praised for efficiency and precision, as noted by chef Chiara Pavan of Venissa in Venice, who highlights its necessity for managing complex service. The fine dining sector has expanded significantly over the past decade, driven by media like MasterChef and Chef's Table, with Italy's economic impact growing from around 280 million euros in 2016 to over 430 million in 2024, largely fueled by international tourism. However, challenges persist, such as stress from maintaining Michelin stars and financial pressures that can lead to overwork. In response, some chefs, like Marco Marini, who opened Nino osteria con cucina in Milan in 2025, are opting for smaller, less hierarchical restaurants to foster better communication and reduce tension. Efforts to improve conditions include guaranteed rest days and participatory approaches, as seen at Venissa, though these depend on financial stability. The debate centers on whether the brigade system inherently promotes abuse or if cultural shifts can mitigate its drawbacks while preserving its benefits.