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Edith Head's First Hitchcock Collaboration: The Story Behind Notorious

publication · 2026-09-06

The recently released book, 'Fashioning Hitchcock: Stories Behind the Costumes from The Lodger to Marnie', delves into the iconic costume designer Edith Head's initial partnership with director Alfred Hitchcock on the 1946 film Notorious. This film, featuring Cary Grant and Ingrid Bergman, includes a striking zebra-print top that exposes Alicia's midriff, a design choice Head stated was meant to illustrate her character's 'party girl' image and her sense of entrapment. Head crafted costumes for 11 of Hitchcock's films, such as Rear Window, Vertigo, and The Birds. Bergman, who preferred not to alter her appearance, suggested Head to producer David O. Selznick. Head noted Hitchcock's strong opinions on costume details, even specifying sounds like heels on marble floors. The fashion press highlighted the film's costumes, and Hitchcock's 1953 deal with Paramount brought him back to work with Head. The book reveals Hitchcock's belief that clothing should not overshadow Bergman's role as a convincing secret agent. Designer Jonathan Anderson later cited Bergman's character as a muse for his Dior cruise 2027 show.

Key facts

  • Edith Head's first collaboration with Alfred Hitchcock was on the 1946 film Notorious.
  • Ingrid Bergman recommended Head to producer David O. Selznick for Notorious.
  • Head designed costumes for 11 Hitchcock films, including Rear Window, Vertigo, and The Birds.
  • The zebra-print top in Notorious was designed to show Alicia as a 'party girl with a notorious reputation'.
  • Head found Hitchcock more opinionated about costumes than any other director she had worked with.
  • Hitchcock's script specified costume details like heels clicking on marble floors and skirts swirling.
  • Notorious was released 80 years ago and remains influential, inspiring designers like Jonathan Anderson.
  • The book 'Fashioning Hitchcock' by fashion historian explores the stories behind the costumes from The Lodger to Marnie.

Entities

Artists

Institutions

  • Paramount Pictures
  • RKO
  • Dior
  • Vogue

Locations

  • Miami
  • Rio de Janeiro
  • Hollywood
  • Sweden
  • United States

Sources