Cashmere Shawls: From Kashmir to 19th-Century French Fashion Obsession
Originating from the fleece of Changthangi goats in the Kashmir Valley, cashmere shawls were once considered luxury items for the elite. These shawls, which can be traced back to the 16th century and are illustrated in 17th-century Indian miniatures, required skilled artisans and could take nearly a year to produce. The borders featured the buta motif, later recognized as paisley. During Napoleon Bonaparte's Egyptian campaign (1798–1801), shawls made their way to France, gaining fame after being worn by Empress Joséphine. By the 19th century, France accounted for 80% of Europe’s cashmere shawl imports, representing bourgeois prestige. However, domestic production using pashm wool began by 1816 as French manufacturers struggled to replicate Kashmiri quality. After the Franco-Prussian War, demand waned, and today, pure cashmere shawls can reach prices of up to $4,000.
Key facts
- Cashmere shawls originated in the Kashmir Valley and were made from the underbelly fleece of Changthangi goats.
- Emperor Akbar of the Mughal dynasty was famous for wearing cashmere shawls, and the earliest written record dates to the 16th century.
- France consumed approximately 80 percent of cashmere shawls imported into Europe during the 19th century.
- Cashmere shawls entered France during Napoleon Bonaparte's Egyptian campaign (1798–1801) and gained popularity after Empress Joséphine wore them.
- The buta motif, later known as paisley, was a prominent design on traditional shawls.
- French manufacturers began producing imitation shawls after 1816, when pashm wool from Iran became available.
- The Jacquard loom, invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard, automated weaving and led to mass production; French shawls appeared in 1818.
- After the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, demand declined, and many Kashmiri weavers fled to Punjab or died in the 1877 famine.
Entities
Artists
- Alfred Stevens
- François Gérard
- Antoine Jean Gros
- Joseph Marie Jacquard
- Napoleon Bonaparte
- Empress Joséphine
- Empress Marie-Louise
- Emperor Akbar
- Guillaume Ternaux
Institutions
- The Rijksmuseum
- The Metropolitan Museum of Art
- Journal des Dames et des Modes
- English East India Company
Locations
- Kashmir
- India
- Pakistan
- France
- Paris
- Paisley
- Scotland
- Iran
- Punjab
- Amsterdam
- New York