ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

10 Art Nouveau Jewelry Masterpieces: From Lalique to Wolfers

publication · 2026-07-24

A feature in DailyArt Magazine showcases ten remarkable pieces of Art Nouveau jewelry from the early 1900s, illustrating the movement's opposition to industrialization. The Dragonfly-Woman corsage ornament by René Lalique (c. 1897–1898, Calouste Gulbenkian Museum) portrays a bare-breasted figure. Alphonse Mucha and Georges Fouquet designed a serpent bracelet-ring for Sarah Bernhardt in 1899 (Sakai Alphonse Mucha Museum), crafted from gold and gems. Henri-Auguste Solié's brooch (c. 1900, Maison Riondet) features a femme fatale. Lalique's swan necklace (c. 1897–1899, Metropolitan Museum of Art) forgoes diamonds, while Louis Aucoc's Woman and Octopus brooch (c. 1898, Pforzheim Jewellery Museum) embodies Japonisme. Philippe Wolfers' orchid hair ornament (1905–1907, Victoria and Albert Museum) showcases plique-à-jour enamel. The style diminished after World War I, paving the way for Art Deco.

Key facts

  • René Lalique's Dragonfly-Woman corsage ornament (c. 1897–1898) is at the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, Lisbon.
  • Lalique was the first jeweler to depict nude women in his pieces.
  • Alphonse Mucha and Georges Fouquet made a serpent bracelet-ring for Sarah Bernhardt in 1899.
  • The bracelet-ring is at the Sakai Alphonse Mucha Museum, Sakai City, Japan.
  • Henri-Auguste Solié's brooch (c. 1900) is from Maison Riondet.
  • Henri and Paul Vever's necklace with Breton woman pendant (c. 1900) was sold at Sotheby's in 1997.
  • Lalique's swan necklace (c. 1897–1899) is at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City.
  • Louis Aucoc's Woman and Octopus brooch (c. 1898) is at the Pforzheim Jewellery Museum, Germany.
  • Philippe Wolfers' orchid hair ornament (1905–1907) is at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
  • Georges Le Turcq's ring (c. 1900) is from BADA.
  • Lalique's iris bracelet (1897) is at Macklowe Gallery, New York City.
  • Wolfers' The Maiden and the Peacock (1900–1902) is from a private collection.
  • Art Nouveau jewelry often used semi-precious stones like opals and amethysts.
  • The movement was influenced by Japanese art (Japonisme) and Symbolist art.
  • Art Nouveau declined with the onset of World War I, replaced by Art Deco.

Entities

Artists

Institutions

  • DailyArt Magazine
  • Calouste Gulbenkian Museum
  • Sakai Alphonse Mucha Museum
  • Maison Riondet
  • Sotheby's
  • Metropolitan Museum of Art
  • Pforzheim Jewellery Museum
  • Victoria and Albert Museum
  • Macklowe Gallery
  • BADA
  • The Crucible

Locations

  • Lisbon
  • Portugal
  • Sakai City
  • Japan
  • Paris
  • France
  • New York City
  • NY
  • USA
  • Pforzheim
  • Germany
  • London
  • UK
  • Oakland
  • California
  • Brittany
  • South Africa
  • Australia

Sources