Wagyu Beef: Japan's Failure to Protect Its Prized Meat

Japan failed to adequately protect the name of its most prized beef, wagyu, leading to a global market flooded with products of varying quality. While Japan maintained strict domestic standards, it did not effectively limit international spread. Between the 1970s and 1990s, hundreds of cattle were exported, mainly to the US, establishing foreign farms. In the 1990s, Japan banned exports of wagyu genetic material, but the global market was already beyond its control. Today, many meats are sold as wagyu despite having little in common with Japanese breeding methods. In the US, the American Wagyu Association introduced a certification program in September 2025, backed by the USDA, requiring high marbling and Japanese genetic origin for "authentic" wagyu. Wagyu originated in Japan in the late 19th century, with four breeds, most commonly Japanese Black. A grading system from C1 to A5 exists, with A4-A5 and B4-B5 considered premium. Wagyu is now produced in the US and Australia via crossbreeding, often sold as "wagyu" or "wagyu-style." In Italy, wagyu is less common, with some farms like Cascina La Cigolina in Lombardy producing it, and retailers like Il Viaggiator Goloso and Coop offering certified Japanese wagyu. Wagyu has entered pop culture: Burger King sold a wagyu burger for £11 in the UK with Gordon Ramsay, and in April 2026, Italian chain Donburi House launched a wagyu burger with rapper Guè for €28.