Vogue's Guide to Skin Purging: Causes, Duration, and Treatment

Skin purging occurs when a product or treatment accelerates cell turnover, bringing underlying blemishes to the surface, often as whiteheads. Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme explains that active ingredients like retinoids or azelaic acid are common culprits. Dr. Sam Bunting calls this 'acne turbulence,' an emotionally charged but necessary phase. Dr. Beibei Du-Harpur notes that any product speeding up cell turnover can cause purging, especially retinoids and exfoliants. It typically lasts from four days to six weeks, averaging two weeks, per Dr. Ejikeme. Purging is neither good nor bad, says Dr. Ejikeme, and can be reduced by repairing the skin barrier first. Distinguishing purging from breakouts: purging occurs only where you typically break out, while irritation appears anywhere as red, itchy bumps, per Bunting. Treatment includes soothing ingredients like ceramides and hyaluronic acid, scaling back actives, and using anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide. Prevention involves starting products slowly or using short contact therapy with wash-off exfoliants. Dr. Justine Hextall adds that applying strong actives too frequently can cause significant purging. Bunting recommends a retinoid and azelaic acid serum followed by niacinamide and bakuchiol serum. Avoid picking or over-exfoliating; use gentle cleansers like CeraVe's Hydrating Cleanser and noncomedogenic moisturizers. LED light treatments can reduce inflammation.