V&A's 'Diva' Exhibition Explores Power, Exploitation, and Glamour of Female Performers

The Victoria and Albert Museum in London presents 'Diva', a new exhibition divided into 'Acts' and 'Scenes' that traces the historical development of the diva from nineteenth-century opera singers to contemporary pop stars. The show argues that while the term's etymological origins date to the sixteenth century, the modern diva emerged in the nineteenth century as a title for exceptional female performers. Act I features costumes from figures like Adelina Patti, Ellen Terry, Carole Lombard, and Judy Garland, highlighting both their artistic power and the industry exploitation they faced, including Garland's institutionalization after a suicide attempt at age 25. The exhibition surfaces how Hollywood studios controlled divas' images through tabloid gossip, exemplified by Vivien Leigh's scrapbook. Act II, however, is criticized for being overly commercial, featuring outfits from Elton John, Whitney Houston, and Rihanna without sufficient narrative context. Rihanna's 2014 CFDA Awards gown with Swarovski crystals is a centerpiece. The show includes Miriam Makeba's anti-apartheid activism and Aretha Franklin's civil rights support, but omits deeper exploration of Britney Spears beyond a photo referencing her conservatorship battle. Reviewer Jason Okundaye notes the exhibition struggles to animate contemporary costumes, leaving them feeling like empty shells, and suggests the diva's true power lies in reclaiming pejorative terms rather than in glamorous displays.