Tuscany's historic Casentino wool fabric faces extinction
The ancient Casentino wool fabric, hailing from the Casentino valley in Arezzo, Tuscany, is on the brink of disappearing. This textile, which traces its roots back to 14th-century Florentine traders, is crafted from virgin wool that is fulled for water resistance and teased for added warmth. It gained international popularity in the early 19th century, peaking in the late 1800s with its vibrant orange-red dye and usage in horse blankets, famously worn by personalities such as Bettino Ricasoli, Giuseppe Verdi, and Audrey Hepburn. Despite its rich history, it remains unprotected. The Manifattura del Casentino in Soci underwent administration but was revitalized by a worker cooperative and the Bellandi Group. In January 2024, Manteco purchased Casentino Lane. Producers are now appealing for assistance from the Tuscany Region and the national government, proposing that entrepreneurs like Bertelli or Cucinelli could lend their support.
Key facts
- Casentino cloth is a thick, colored wool fabric from the Casentino valley, Arezzo province, Tuscany.
- It descends from the 'panno grosso' used by Florentine merchants in the 14th century.
- The fabric is fulled for waterproofing and teased to create a curly, insulating pile.
- Its industrial production began in the early 19th century; in the late 1800s, orange-red horse blankets were adopted by the Savoy royal stables.
- Notable wearers include Bettino Ricasoli, Giuseppe Verdi, Giacomo Puccini, and Audrey Hepburn.
- Designers Roberto Cavalli, Pierre Cardin, Gianfranco Ferré, and Gucci have used the fabric.
- In January 2024, Manteco of Montemurlo acquired Casentino Lane.
- In 2024, Alessandra Moretti directed the short film 'Il panno siamo noi' about the fabric.
- Producers are in talks with Valerio Fabiani, delegate for corporate crises, for a valley-wide protection project.
- Andrea Fastoni and Roberto Malossi suggested that entrepreneurs like Bertelli or Cucinelli could save the fabric.
Entities
Artists
- Alessandra Moretti
- Adamo Ricci
- Sisto Bocci
- Andrea Fastoni
- Roberto Malossi
Institutions
- Manifattura del Casentino
- Casentino Lane
- Manteco
- Bellandi Group
- TACS
- Tessilnova
- Museo dell'Arte della Lana
- Corriere della Sera
- Artribune
- Regione Toscana
- Governo italiano
Locations
- Casentino
- Arezzo
- Tuscany
- Italy
- Stia
- Soci
- Bibbiena
- Montemurlo
- Prato