Trench coat: from military uniform to cinema icon
The trench coat, originally developed in the 19th century as a practical garment, has become a fashion staple with deep roots in cinema and literature. Its precursor, the Mackintosh, was created in 1823 by chemist Charles Macintosh using rubberized cotton. Thirty years later, Thomas Burberry patented gabardine, a waterproof and breathable fabric, laying the foundation for the modern trench coat. During war, it became part of the British military uniform, with design features like shoulder straps, raised collar, and double-breasted front serving practical purposes in trenches. In cinema, the trench coat gained symbolic weight: Humphrey Bogart wore it in Casablanca (1942) as a mysterious anti-hero, Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961) as elegance, and Lauren Hutton in American Gigolo (1980) in a Giorgio Armani design. More recent films like The Matrix (1999) and Blade Runner 2049 (2017) showcased its adaptability. Today, brands like Alexander McQueen and Burberry maintain classic versions, while Balenciaga, Givenchy, and Off-White offer modern interpretations with oversized shapes and vibrant colors. Sustainable fashion labels Stella McCartney and Ganni use recycled materials. The trench also features prominently in menswear, with J.W. Anderson and Sacai presenting bold designs.
Key facts
- The first waterproof coat, the Mackintosh, was created in 1823 by Charles Macintosh.
- Thomas Burberry patented gabardine fabric in 1853.
- The trench coat was part of British military uniform during World War I.
- Humphrey Bogart wore a khaki trench coat in Casablanca (1942).
- Audrey Hepburn wore a trench coat in Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961).
- Lauren Hutton wore a Giorgio Armani trench in American Gigolo (1980).
- Keanu Reeves wore a black leather trench in The Matrix (1999).
- Stella McCartney and Ganni produce sustainable trench coats.
Entities
Artists
- Charles Macintosh
- Thomas Burberry
- Humphrey Bogart
- Audrey Hepburn
- Lauren Hutton
- Meryl Streep
- Keanu Reeves
- Raymond Chandler
Institutions
- Burberry
- Alexander McQueen
- Balenciaga
- Givenchy
- Off-White
- Stella McCartney
- Ganni
- J.W. Anderson
- Sacai
- Giorgio Armani
Locations
- United Kingdom