Transparency becomes the new symbolic capital in Italian fashion

Legal demands for transparency in supply chains are prompting changes within the Italian fashion industry. In December 2025, the Milan Prosecutor's Office launched an investigation into 13 luxury brands, including Gucci, Versace, and Dolce & Gabbana, seeking documentation related to their supply chains. This inquiry follows previous cases involving Tod's and others. The EU's Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD, 2023) and the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD, 2024) require disclosures regarding social and environmental effects. A proposed law for small and medium enterprises (SMEs) initially suggested voluntary certification but was revised in February 2026 after backlash, leading to the Senate's approval of a law that creates a €100 million fund for ecological transition and heightens penalties for the improper use of "artisanal" in marketing.