The Rise of Intentional Drinking in America

A New Yorker article explores the shift toward mindful alcohol consumption in the U.S., where drinking rates have dropped to 54% of adults, the lowest in nearly 90 years. The trend is driven by health concerns, GLP-1 drugs, wellness culture, and Gen Z's abstemiousness. In 2025, U.S. Surgeon General Vivek Murthy linked alcohol to seven cancers, urging warning labels. Bars now offer half-sized cocktails, low-ABV options, and sophisticated non-alcoholic drinks. Professional wine adviser Amanda Crawford notes the decline of the classic wine collector, replaced by longevity-focused billionaires. Bartender John deBary stopped drinking in 2022 but still creates boozy recipes like Having Fun Since 1933. Keith McNally reports record alcohol sales at Balthazar and Pastis, while Ashwin Deshmukh plans tiny-’tini programs at Jean's. Chloe Frechette of Echo Lake sees a "very honest" moment in drinking culture. The author reflects on the ritual and tradition of cocktails, from Martinis to eggnog, and visits a secret office bar in Hollywood.