The Rise of Fashion Buying in Italy: From Milan to Global Influence
Fashion buying represents a calculated method for acquiring apparel for multi-brand retailers, differing from mere shopping. The profession owes much to Italy, where the Ente Nazionale della Moda Italiana was established in Turin in 1935. By the 1960s, Milan emerged as a fashion hub, competing with New York, London, and Paris. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II was inaugurated in 1867, while Via Montenapoleone gained fame in the 1950s. Innovators such as Alda Farinella (who passed away in 2024) brought European designers to the forefront in the 1950s, and Anna Maria Lugli's La Pelle showcased labels like Ungaro and Yves Saint Laurent during the 1960s-70s. Notable retailers included Bianchi-Marzotti, Luisa Via Roma, and Mario Sori's boutique. Pitti Uomo debuted in 1952, with Franca Sozzani advocating for Italian fashion worldwide.
Key facts
- Fashion buying is a strategic profession distinct from personal shopping.
- The Ente Nazionale della Moda Italiana was founded in Turin in 1935.
- Milan became a global fashion capital in the 1960s and rivaled other cities by the mid-1970s.
- Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II opened in 1867 as a luxury shopping arcade.
- Alda Farinella introduced Jean-Paul Gaultier and Pierre Cardin to Italy from her 1950s boutique.
- Anna Maria Lugli's La Pelle in Pesaro first carried Ungaro, Kenzo, and Yves Saint Laurent.
- Pitti Uomo, the menswear fair, started in Florence in 1952.
- Franca Sozzani was editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia from 1988 to 2016.
Entities
Artists
- Alda Farinella
- Anna Maria Lugli
- Jean-Paul Gaultier
- Pierre Cardin
- Ungaro
- Kenzo
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Carlo Bianchi
- Luigi Marzotti
- Balenciaga
- Mario Sori
- Vivienne Westwood
- Giorgio Armani
- Gianni Versace
- Franca Sozzani
Institutions
- Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana
- Ente Nazionale della Moda Italiana
- Bianchi-Marzotti
- Luisa Via Roma
- La Rinascente
- Pitti Uomo
- Vogue Italia
- Artribune
Locations
- Italy
- Turin
- Milan
- New York
- London
- Paris
- Tokyo
- Los Angeles
- Pesaro
- Florence
- Rome
- Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
- Via Montenapoleone