The mâchon revival: Lyon's early-morning feast challenges brunch

Chef Henry Harris, known for bringing serious French cooking to British restaurants at Racine and now Bouchon Racine in Farringdon, is championing the mâchon—a traditional Lyonnais early-morning feast of offal, cheese, and wine. The mâchon originated in 19th-century Lyon, where silk workers gathered at bouchons after night shifts. Harris's Bouchon Racine recently published its debut cookbook, The Racine Effect. The revival mirrors France's bouillon resurgence since 2017, with no-frills, canteen-style restaurants proliferating at a rate of one per month. La Confrérie des Francs-Mâchons curates a national network of vetted bouchons and promotes mâchon as an alternative to brunch. Bruno Bouteraud, maître restaurateur at Café des Fédérations in Lyon, notes renewed interest in dining experiences full of identity. In the UK, diners are gravitating toward heritage-driven food, with sought-after reservations in timber-panelled pubs. Harris opened early on Beaujolais Nouveau day, serving red wine and bacon baguettes to a queue of customers. The trend suggests a move away from gastronomic monoculture toward food that embodies sharing and sincerity.