The Evolution and Allure of Fashion's Resort Shows

Resort collections, also known as cruise collections, are a fashion season that occurs between January and March, following menswear and couture shows in Milan and Paris and the New York womenswear circuit. The tradition dates back to the 20th century, when wealthy European customers purchased seasonally appropriate clothing, like "beach pajamas," for post-Christmas ocean liner trips. Coco Chanel capitalized on this by launching jersey sportswear and opening boutiques in Deauville and Biarritz; the brand will return to Biarritz for its resort 2027 runway show. As leisure travel became more accessible in the latter half of the 20th century, the resort season expanded, serving as a marketing tool to fill racks between fall and summer collections. The modern spectacle of resort shows began in 2007 when Chanel presented at New York's Grand Central Station, with Karl Lagerfeld pioneering extravagant sets. These shows often feature historic locations, such as Chanel's 2017 show in Cuba, the first official US visit in nearly 40 years. This season, several European houses are heading to the US: Jonathan Anderson will show Christian Dior at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art on May 13, Demna will present Gucci's first cruise collection in New York on May 16, and Nicolas Ghesquière will follow with Louis Vuitton. The US has become a defining trend for resort this season.