Spring Rolls: Lunar New Year Symbolism and Cultural History in ArtReview
Spring rolls trace their roots back to a seasonal dish mentioned in a Jin Empire text approximately 1,700 years ago, referred to as the 'spring plate.' During the Tang dynasty, they evolved to incorporate thin wheat pancakes and later transformed into crispy fried treats. These rolls became a staple during Lunar New Year, representing prosperity through the tradition of hoi jauwo ('opening the oil pot'). Traditional celebratory foods include whole steamed fish, clams, long noodles, black moss soup, tangerines, oranges, and glutinous rice dumplings. The article also discusses Fruit Chan's 2004 film Dumplings, which critiques issues related to symbolic consumption. Today, spring rolls are prepared throughout the year, with homemade variations allowing for ingredient customization. This piece is featured in the January & February edition of ArtReview.
Key facts
- Spring rolls originated as a seasonal food first mentioned in a Jin Empire text around 1,700 years ago
- By the Tang dynasty, thin wheat pancakes were added to seasonal produce
- Frying stuffed pancakes in hot oil created the modern spring roll delicacy
- Spring rolls became Lunar New Year fare associated with wealth and the practice of hoi jauwo ('opening the oil pot')
- Symbolic Lunar New Year foods include whole steamed fish for surplus and clams for new horizons
- Hong Kong director Fruit Chan's 2004 film Dumplings critiques symbolic food consumption and social issues
- Shark's fin soup was fashionable for rejuvenation but devastating to ocean ecosystems
- Spring rolls can now be made year-round with ingredients like pork, shrimp, and napa cabbage
Entities
Artists
- Fruit Chan
Institutions
- ArtReview
Locations
- Hong Kong
- China