Sofia Gnoli's 'Eleganza fascista' traces Italian fashion origins
In 'Eleganza fascista' (Carocci 2017), fashion historian Sofia Gnoli delves into the roots of Italian fashion during the Fascist Ventennio, utilizing rare illustrations and documents. The narrative emphasizes the influence of women on postwar fashion, marking a shift from the garçonne look to the 'donna sirena.' Significant milestones include the Universal Expositions of 1906 and 1911, as well as the 1919 National Congress of the Clothing Industry. Key personalities featured are Rosa Genoni, Lydia De Liguoro, Thayaht, and Marinetti. The regime founded the National Artistic Institute for Italian Fashion in 1928 and the National Fashion Board in 1935. The book also covers textiles, Ferragamo's sandals, and the magazine 'Bellezza,' concluding with the emergence of made in Italy and American women in Capri.
Key facts
- Book 'Eleganza fascista' by Sofia Gnoli published by Carocci in 2017
- Covers Italian fashion from the 1920s to the end of WWII
- Highlights women's role in creating Italian style
- Discusses Futurist contributions: Thayaht's 'tuta', Marinetti's manifesto
- Regime founded National Artistic Institute for Italian Fashion (1928) and National Fashion Board (1935)
- Autarchic textiles: rayon, lanital, angora wool from Luisa Spagnoli
- Ferragamo created cork wedge sandals; turbans inspired by Greta Garbo
- Postwar rise of Gucci, Ferragamo, Prada, Fendi
Entities
Artists
- Sofia Gnoli
- Rosa Genoni
- Lydia De Liguoro
- Thayaht
- Filippo Tommaso Marinetti
- Gabriele D'Annunzio
- Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (Biki)
- Luisa Spagnoli
- Salvatore Ferragamo
- Greta Garbo
- Marlene Dietrich
- Maria José of Belgium
- Edda Mussolini
- Brunetta Ferrario
- Fabio Massimo Pellicano
Institutions
- Sapienza University of Rome
- Carocci Editore
- UPIM (Unico Prezzo Italiano Milano)
- La Rinascente
- National Artistic Institute for Italian Fashion
- National Fashion Board (Ente nazionale della moda)
- Cisa-Viscosa
- Gucci
- Ferragamo
- Prada
- Fendi
- Artribune
- Lidel
- Bellezza
- Vogue
- Società delle Nazioni (League of Nations)
Locations
- Rome
- Italy
- Paris
- Turin
- Milan
- Sanremo
- Cernobbio
- Viareggio
- Capri
- Ethiopia