Samuel Ross and Francesco Risso at Milan Fashion Week: Two Generational Designers

At Milan Fashion Week, Samuel Ross and Francesco Risso presented collections that, while vastly different, share a generational connection to Gen Y and Gen Z. Ross, 28, from Brixton, showed his A-Cold-Wall* line with technical outerwear, resin caps, and work pants in varied volumes, including a double-breasted blazer in bright blue crinkled nylon. Risso, 34, from Genoa, presented Marni's maximalist mix of colors, fabrics, and oversized silhouettes, with a performance by choreographer Michele Rizzo. The show featured fluid movements turning into a march, with knee-length shirts, oversized turtlenecks, heart-printed uniforms, pink crop tops, unmatched coats, and reversed quilted linings. Risso used recycled deadstock, hand-painted floral velvet remnants, and satin-leather hybrids. Both designers reject traditional minimal/maximal labels, viewing outfits as performative tools for temporary functions, not identity statements. The article notes that among 26 shows, 46 presentations, and 22 events, little was truly new, but Ross and Risso stood out as the least tired.