Rizzoli Book Resurrects Jean Louis, Hollywood's Overlooked Bombshell Costume Designer
"Jean Louis: Hollywood's Bombshell Designer," the sixth installment by biographers Roger and Mauricio Padilha, is set to be released by Rizzoli. This book seeks to revive the legacy of Jean Louis, the French costume designer celebrated for Rita Hayworth’s gown in Gilda and Marilyn Monroe's dress worn for JFK's birthday. Although his creations are iconic, Louis remains less recognized than contemporaries like Adrian, Edith Head, or Travis Banton, largely due to the lesser prominence of Columbia Pictures and his own insecurities. The Padilhas gained access to Louis's archives via his widow, Loretta Young, and examined all 188 films he worked on, revealing uncredited contributions, an AFI interview, and insights into his experiences during the Lavender Scare. The narrative frames his designs around female archetypes, emphasizing a modern revival of his glamour.
Key facts
- Rizzoli is releasing Jean Louis: Hollywood's Bombshell Designer by Roger and Mauricio Padilha.
- The book is the Padilhas' sixth, following New York After Dark and titles on Stephen Sprouse.
- Jean Louis designed Rita Hayworth's Gilda dress and Marilyn Monroe's Happy Birthday gown.
- Louis worked at couture house Drecoll and Hattie Carnegie before moving to Hollywood.
- He was married three times, last to actress Loretta Young, who gave the authors archive access.
- The Padilhas watched all 188 films on which Louis was credited.
- Louis was likely gay and entered marriages of convenience during the Lavender Scare.
- The authors cite Nicole Kidman and Selena Gomez as evidence of renewed interest in old Hollywood glamour.
Entities
Artists
- Jean Louis
- Rita Hayworth
- Marilyn Monroe
- John F. Kennedy
- Adrian
- Edith Head
- Travis Banton
- Loretta Young
- Elizabeth Taylor
- Marlene Dietrich
- Dorothy Lamour
- Claudia Cardinale
- Hattie Carnegie
- Irene Dunne
- Pauline Trigère
- Norman Norrell
- James Galanos
- Kim Novak
- Sandra Dee
- Margaret Fisher Louis
- Judy Holliday
- Ann Margret
- Vivien Leigh
- Doris Day
- Nicole Kidman
- Doja Cat
- Tina Turner
- Judy Garland
- Selena Gomez
- Taylor Swift
- Steven Sprouse
- Iggy Pop
- Christian Dior
- Thierry Mugler
- Orry-Kelly
- Sabrina Carpenter
- Anya Taylor-Joy
- Elizabetth Courtney
Institutions
- Rizzoli
- Columbia Pictures
- MGM
- RKO
- Museum at FIT
- Hattie Carnegie
- House of Drecoll
- Schiaparelli
- Chanel
- Ralph Lauren
- Oscar de la Renta
- Adam Selman
- American Film Institute
- Vogue World Hollywood
- CFDA Awards
- The Runthrough Podcast
Locations
- New York
- United States
- Paris
- France
- Place Vendôme
- Hollywood
- Greece
- Europe