ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Ralph Lauren's Catwalk History: From Polo to Tuxedos

publication · 2026-05-18

A new book by Bridget Foley chronicles Ralph Lauren's runway shows from 1981 to 2024. The 1981 show, inspired by Hollywood's golden age, marked the brand's international expansion, leading to a store on New Bond Street in London. Lauren pioneered menswear-influenced womenswear, as seen in Iman's 1983 tailored evening look. His 1990 'Gone Fishing' collection featured utilitarian clothing like waders and fishing rods, contrasting with the era's 'ladies who lunch' aesthetic. The polo player logo, introduced in 1967 on a woman's shirt cuff, was initially dismissed as a 'smudge' by a 1974 journalist but became iconic. The spring/summer 2006 collection referenced Sara Murphy, inspiring F. Scott Fitzgerald's character Nicole Diver. In 2010, 'The Fabric of America' collection celebrated workers during the recession. The 2019 show, featuring Gigi Hadid and Janelle Monáe performing 'Let's Face the Music and Dance,' was fashion's last major event before COVID-19. In 2024, Christy Turlington closed the spring/summer show in a gold dress.

Key facts

  • Ralph Lauren's first catwalk show was in 1981, inspired by Hollywood's golden age.
  • The brand opened its first international store on New Bond Street, London, after Joan Burstein approached Lauren.
  • Lauren pioneered menswear-inspired womenswear, as modeled by Iman in 1983.
  • The 1990 'Gone Fishing' collection featured waders, anoraks, hoodies, and fishing rods.
  • The polo player logo debuted in 1967 on a woman's shirt cuff and was criticized as a 'smudge' in 1974.
  • The spring/summer 2006 collection was inspired by Sara Murphy, who inspired Nicole Diver in 'Tender Is the Night.'
  • The 2010 'Fabric of America' collection referenced 1930s workers and the recession.
  • The 2019 show with Gigi Hadid and Janelle Monáe was the last major fashion event before COVID-19.
  • Christy Turlington closed the spring/summer 2024 show in a gold dress.

Entities

Artists

  • Ralph Lauren
  • Bridget Foley
  • Joan Burstein
  • Iman
  • Gigi Hadid
  • Kate Moss
  • Naomi Campbell
  • Christy Turlington
  • Janelle Monáe
  • Fred Astaire
  • Ginger Rogers
  • Sara Murphy
  • Gerald Murphy
  • F. Scott Fitzgerald

Institutions

  • Browns
  • Ralph Lauren

Locations

  • London
  • United Kingdom
  • New Bond Street
  • New York
  • United States
  • France

Sources