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Pitti Uomo 108 CEO Raffaello Napoleone on menswear evolution, identity, and second-hand culture

festival-fair · 2026-04-26

The 108th edition of Pitti Uomo took place at Florence's Fortezza da Basso from June 17–20, 2025, featuring over 740 brands and more than 4,400 international buyers by mid-third day. CEO Raffaello Napoleone discussed the fair's strategy amid a saturated fashion calendar, emphasizing selection over square-meter sales, internationalization, and Florence's unique identity. He noted a shift toward wellness and activewear, with formal brands launching performance lines. On Made in Italy, he highlighted production relocalization and the rise of second-hand culture as a new form of identity. Key export markets remain France, Germany, the US, and China, with emerging opportunities in Southeast Asia (Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam) and Mexico. Napoleone reflected on the closure of Pitti Casa nearly 20 years ago, suggesting a possible revival given renewed interest in design among youth. The edition's bicycle theme underscored tensions between craftsmanship and technology, with sustainability now a non-negotiable regulatory and practical concern.

Key facts

  • Pitti Uomo 108 held June 17–20, 2025 at Fortezza da Basso, Florence
  • Over 740 brands participated
  • More than 4,400 international buyers registered by mid-third day
  • 43% of brands are from outside Italy
  • Event featured runway shows by Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Niccolò Pasqualetti
  • CEO Raffaello Napoleone has led Pitti Immagine for nearly 30 years
  • Pitti Casa was closed about 20 years ago; Napoleone considers reviving it
  • Key export markets: France, Germany, US, China; emerging: Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, Mexico

Entities

Artists

  • Raffaello Napoleone
  • Niccolò Pasqualetti

Institutions

  • Pitti Uomo
  • Pitti Immagine
  • Fortezza da Basso
  • Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
  • Artribune
  • Indonesian Fashion Week

Locations

  • Florence
  • Italy
  • France
  • Germany
  • United States
  • China
  • Indonesia
  • Thailand
  • Vietnam
  • Mexico
  • Dubai
  • South Korea
  • Japan

Sources